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  2. Might be able to get a sharper boundary with some help from tape and wax? - tape, dip, wait for the glaze to dry some, wax, wait for the wax to set up enough, remove tape, wait a while... dip the other glaze.
  3. Today
  4. If the cone is bending to a perfect 90 degrees, but it's not accurate, there's a good chance the sitter rod (the rod that sits on top of the cone and has the claw at the other end)) is bent or worn away. Take a look at it where it rests on the cone and see if it tapers at the end from burning away over the years. To check if it's bent (also from wear), take off the cover plate from the front of the sitter and rotate the claw and rod and you can see if it rotates evenly. If either issue is present, replace the rod.
  5. My Cress kiln did the same thing. I called Cress and spoke with Arturo. He said to turn the speed control knob around a time or two. Worked like a charm. Thumbwheel rotates now. Now that's rocket science! Lol
  6. Thanks for quick reply! I fired manually for about another 1 1/2 hours before cone bent. Can't wait to see it in the morning after it cools.
  7. yes got a borinhg green which is lovely refired to cone 03 good luck Mark, and nice observations form the couch!!!! i guess you placed that couch so could be alerted of such things...licky the sun was shining on you!
  8. If you use synthetic bone ash (if your recipe calls for bone ash) it will be way red.
  9. Yesterday
  10. yes min. I then used both your version and the original....on these mugs AND I also used a glaze I have used for yonks on other mugs with the same cracking of handle. I do wish I had studied the position of the survivors prior to picking them out of kiln..mind on other side....wjich ones were broken..
  11. Skutt has a good video on how to adjust a sitter, same process for any make of kiln. Starts at 2:55 into this video.
  12. Babs, did you test my low COE version of this glaze for dunting before using it? Like I mentioned when I posted the recipe it really is a low COE version of the original Alabama glaze. Is it a sharp crack across the bottom of the bowl? Could very well be dunting from a mismatch of glaze and clay if that's the case. Could you post the other glaze recipe that you used?
  13. Oh, there is a little metal disc you put in the pointy end and then adjust the weight in the front end. It's in the manual for the kiln sitter model you have. I think a lot of people just toss out the calibration "plate", or lose it, so if it was a used kiln, might need to order one from your local pottery supply.
  14. I found a neat trick for iron reds the other day, I have an iron glaze that goes tomato red if I bisque it after glaze firing. It is usually brown. Gonna try it with my other iron glazes soon
  15. Ok we all know not to cool a kiln down to fast. I had some friends who cracked their advancer shelves by opening the damper to soon to cool off their downdraft 30 cubic foot kiln. I alwaysa close the damper at cone 11 and let it sit for a few days until last Saturday. You know when ceramics seems like its flowing along well than wam two X four in the head. Last Saturday I was firing two glaze kilns (both gas) started them at 5.30 am. The 1st one went off at 4.30 pm and I closed it up as I have a thousand times before. We get into a routine about these things or so we think. Second kiln cone 11, 1/2 way down at 5 PM -turn off 4 burners on right side and then the other 4 burners left side. About 3 hours later I sat down on couch in living room and noticed the heat waves reflecting on my socks-I jumped up realizing the low sun was showing the heat waves into the living room meaning the damper never got shut down 3 hours ago. I raced out and shut the damper. The digital pyro showed the kiln dropped 1,000 degrees in that 3 hour period. I was off on a two day trip to SF in the am and for two days thought about the worst-broken shelves cracked pots under oxidized glazes-you name it. I have never done this in 45 years-made a damper mistake. I knew the cystals would not be there in the glazes 9they needs slow cooling to form) What else can happen to a 35 cubic kiln load of stuffed porcelain pots when its crashed cooled. Last night when arriving from a 6 hour drive I opened the kiln to find all is well. The only thing so far noticed is my brown glaze is muddy and very brown not reddish. I have yet to unload it all so we shall see what else is astray . Just when its all going so well-even the pros get it wrong now and again.Ceramics is most humbling at times
  16. liam, it is not fair to tell a total newbie that a step you know well is one she should be able to do. at least tell her how, please.
  17. We recently did a test firing of some cone 6 clays in our old-time Skutt kiln (model 1081 or 181?) to cone 04. The pyrometric bar in the kilnsitter melted to a perfect u/v shape & turned off the kiln, but the 04 witness cone we placed near our test tiles apparently didn't melt at all. Also, the test tiles in this kiln sound less bell-like when we tap them against each other than the ones in our Skutt 818 programmable kiln. 1) How do you tell when a piece is completely bisqued? 2) (Assuming our test tiles really aren't completely bisqued like I think they probably aren't), what should we do to be sure the kiln is doing enough heat work? Should we put 03 bars in the kilnsitter? I'm a tolerably experienced potter, but a total newbie at firing, so any and all advice from those of you with more experience will be very much appreciated. Thank you, -Kristina Vatne
  18. hulk no crazing I can see and no clear glaze. top and inside Alabama rain. mins version on some also cracked. lower third a black satin matte. . where are you seeing crazing hulk? I'll study them again.
  19. I would never expect an overlap to not show. I think what you have there is a rare occurrence.
  20. Interesting, interesting. @oldlady Man, you ain't kidding. That thing is it. What music would you say should accompany that sofa? @C.Banks I'd argue with your idea of "west" if I was still into that kind of thing, but it has a low ROI. The "west" has some things going for it too. +1 on a kinder humanity being cool. Stand by, I'm working as fast as I can! @GEP " In my life, I've met many non-Asians who misinterpret this as approval, and somehow manage to extend the misinterpretation as “lower standards,” and take advantage of it, " OK sister. You lost me here. What is the "this" that is misinterpreted as approval? If it is silence/restraint, then I'm interpreting "lower standards" as assumed indifference? Am I tracking here, or am I off base? +1 on speaking your mind - at least we'll all know where we are at. Prolonged repression jacks up your cortisol levels ... I think. One thing I think is fairly certain, just because we use the same words doesn't mean we're playing the same game (a la Wittgenstein).
  21. The top glaze has .48 Boron and likely melts at cone 04 (lowfire) so it probably levels out a bunch assuming fired to cone 6. The bottom glaze has virtually no boron and has gloss chemistry so likely it is matte because it is not fully melted to get the matte look. A wild guess is the VC turns glossy fired to its correct melting temperature. Not being fully melted would be a reason that the overlap would likely show up.
  22. Just put a cart under the chute/slide or end it onto a table at waist height i have to load my clay into my truck at the warehouse, then unload it at home, and into my house. Then to use it I have to unload it from the house and into my shed. It moves around a lot and I must be weak because it never gets easier.
  23. Very good point! I do have an old coal chute/ door that leads into my studio, as it used to be the coal room for my house. I would say that I could just throw it through that way, but that's where my exhaust is vented through.
  24. Yes, wait for the cones, maybe the kilnsitter cone broke.
  25. More info: it's been firing for about 8 hours.
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