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  2. That's a good clay if you like the feel and look of a buff. I prefer the #630 because it doesn't have grog. It's feels fairly smooth, but fireclay gives it enough tooth to be quite forgiving. I also prefer the color of the #630. Try them both!
  3. I wasn't there, but two techs from our gas supplier showed up this morning, and Wendy showed them the kiln. Not something they deal with everyday, so they were very interested in it. They observed that the pilot was a "lazy flame," took the assembly apart and noted that it did not appear to have a gas orifice. They called Olympic to find out if it was supposed to have one and to get the specs, then one of them went looking for one in their truck. Meanwhile the other tech looked around on the sheet metal under the kiln and found the one that had somehow fallen out. They installed the orifice in the pilot assembly, and it works! And we don't have to tape the red button down to keep it running, either.... They did recommend some maintenance on the whole pilot bar assembly.... we have a problem with the bar burners getting "coked" up with carbon deposits later in a firing (when the main burners are turned up), which I think might be due to gas density effects changing the mix ratio as the propane tank ices up, and thus the supplied gas is colder.... We should probably get a larger tank or a dual tank set-up to reduce the freeze up.
  4. I was thinking of trying Standard 553 Buff clay- C/4-6 Good clay body for production work. Contains fire clay and fine grog. Cone 6 Shrinkage 10.5% Absorption 1.25% Do you think this would be better?
  5. This is just a wild guess but it could be a further variation of Jason Hooper's Val Cushing Pam Matte glaze (without the copper). Looks like it's overfired, the VC glaze is super sensitive to firing temp, over cone 5 and it runs.
  6. Today
  7. It may work, but like Min said it'll be trial and error. If you have access to Standard clays, and you want a good stoneware body, I recommend #630, #112, and #211. If you want porcelain, then #365.
  8. Agree with Neil, as the crazing is so severe I wouldn't try the silica fix. It probably will fit a different claybody but it will be trial and error. If you are making functional pots I would ask your supplier for recommendations for a body that has less than 2% absorption and doesn't require low expansion glazes. Going forward, trying out new glaze / clay on test tiles before using on actual pots can save some aggravation. If you are firing to cone 6 then get a clay that matures at cone 6, not cone 9 like the Standard 101 Buff.
  9. Do you think I could fix it with a different clay body? I am looking to switch my clay up, and this may just be the time to do it.
  10. I agree. Spiders love burners. If that doesn't work, those little pilots are cheap and easy to replace.
  11. As crazed as it is, by the time you add enough silica and kaolin to solve the crazing there's a good chance it will affect the melt. It may be easier to mix your own white glaze that you know works.
  12. Very crazed, you will need to adjust the glaze fit some way. Normal for gloss when ya don’t know what is in it you can try to add 1.25:1 silica to clay until it stops crazing. so in parts 1.25 silica : 1 clay 2.5 silica : 2 clay and so on ....
  13. Clean out left side pilot orifice, it’s very tiny. Next time If you have to test simply use your manual light and tape it down trick. That way you only need to unscrew each thermo couple and screw it into the other valve. (No valve moving or piping moving) The picture you originally sent looked yellow and flashed anyway so it seems likely a dirty pilot orifice. Take that side assembly off and clean it out thoroughly there is probably a spider web in there. Don’t forget the orifice is at the end of the tube, clear it with something soft and blow backwards through it, also make sure to clean everything as often spiders will build a web in the assembly itself just after the orifice. See below, everything comes apart and can usually be cleaned in a few minutes.
  14. As if using Stoner as a name for your business isn't recommendation enough. https://www.stonermolding.com/
  15. Update: Swapping thermcouples sounds simple but they have different lead lengths, so the TC from the left side would not work on the right side. Leaving the TC's in place and just swapping them at the valves would require swapping the pilot system gas plumbing at the valves as well.... with already formed tubing cut to length, that would be a lot of work. So we got a new thermocouple, and got that installed (see my other thread on removing the old TC). Started up the left-side pilot system and it was immediately obvious that the pilot flame on the TC was crap. Adjusting the needle valve on the gas TC pilot gas supply offered no improvement. Still had to tape the red button down to keep the pilot burning, but gas was flowing through the valve, so we started the pilot system on the left side (much better pilot flame on that side), and then lit all six main burners to "candle" the kiln for a bit to try to dry things out. Everything was looking good, except for the crappy pilot flame on the left-side TC, but the kiln was running, so we started the firing. We check on it every 15 minutes, and on one of those checks after about two hours, we found the kiln had died. We tried to re-light it, but gas would not flow through the first BASO valve anymore. Wendy took apart the gas supply to the left side TC pilot flame, blew everything out with compressed air to clean it all up, put it back together, but no joy -- the pilot flame was still all yellow, no blue.... So either there is some sort of problem with that pilot "burner" still, or the problem is within the BASO valve -- not supplying the right gas pressure or something. We are still having to tape the red button down to keep the pilot flame burning. Our next step is to get a tech from our gas supplier out to take a look to see if they have any insight (a delivery truck driver from the company was filling a propane tank at our house when we tried firing the kiln last week, and he offered some helpful suggestions then). The kiln is still loaded with "unfired" wares (it only reached about 700F before quitting -- we fire to Cone 10).
  16. I finally figured this out. I pulled and pulled, and not only the thermocouple but the socket into which it is inserted. The socket was press-fit into a hole in the angle-iron mount. It has knurled (ribbed) section that was the press-fit, the other end is internally threaded and has wrench flats. Initially I had thought those wrench flats were a "nut" that was securing the thermocouple in place, and had tried valiantly to unscrew it -- before I figured out that this thermocouple was this snap-in style. It turns out that my wrenching had deformed the socket fitting enough that it was no longer round, so the thermcouple wouldn't come out. I squeezed the socket fitting in a vice to try to get it back to round, go the thermocouple out, made some more adjustments to the shape of the socket fitting so that a new thermocouple could be inserted. Then I devised a screw-press to press the socket fitting back into place (although now it is a bit loose....). Anyway, this part of my problem appears to be solved.
  17. Okay, I finally got the image uploaded. I had to make it really small, sorry. This picture is of ~2 inches x 1 inch of the sidewall inside one of my white and green mugs. The white seems to be the only glaze on this mug that crazed
  18. I like them. Audio is nicer also and of course no PJ’s a plus. Kudos to mentioning the compression out to in. You are probably only the third person I know to mention it and it has saved countless newbies from the unexplained crack. Food preparation is a bit of science also. This video has made me hungry, go figure. someone I watched who was a throw to the stick person actually hinged the last two inches of his stick so when done he could flip it horizontally out of the way. Seemed like an easy good idea.
  19. Hi! I'm quite new to this forum and I'd like to ask your opinion. We had a glaze in the workshop which looks super awesome and I have no idea what it could be. I was thinking some of you might have an idea what components are used here. Or maybe you've already seen something like this before. Its dominant colour is that peach-green but the thicker parts turn purple. (these were all cone 6) https://i.ibb.co/4sdTZdG/Photo-24-04-2019-14-38-46.jpg https://i.ibb.co/7gwbfkg/Photo-24-04-2019-14-38-52.jpg https://i.ibb.co/G5KSnNN/Photo-24-04-2019-14-54-13.jpg
  20. ( oils can clog the pores of the plaster making the mold less effective,) this can happen unless you use a non oil based release https://www.axner.com/pure-lube.aspx
  21. Thanks all for the adivice! I think I may be demolding too early, it seems like the problem is the plaster not setting well or not fully set. Somewhere I read that I should demold when the mold is warm, but perhaps that’s wrong, has anyone else done that? Could also be too much soap, thats a good thought. I have been avoiding oil-based mold release agents on the advice that the oils can clog the pores of the plaster making the mold less effective, but maybe it’s time to give those a try.
  22. If the pot is porous it will take in moisture which will cause and exacerbate crazing over time. @Brandon Franks, try email yourself the photo in a smaller size then post that image, file should be smaller.
  23. Would the fact that there is a wide firing range with that clay have something to do with the glaze not fitting at the temp you are firing?? Just wondering. Roberta
  24. Definitely will try that if I can't get the issue solved.
  25. I Keep trying to, but am having trouble uploading a file. If you want, I could maybe email you a photo of the crazing.
  26. I actually dip but use multiple layers. However, I see most the crazing on the inside. I was actually looking to switch up my clay body, do you have any suggestions that work good with layering glaze. Sorry if I am asking a lot, I have never felt with commercial glazes before and it is quite annoying. I am just going to stick to making my own in the future. I am trying to post a picture but keep getting told the size is too big...
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