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  2. Hi ML! idk, ah look't (Olympic site): http://www.greatkilns.com/1827g.html I'd like to have one! ...curious how evenly it heats up&down, side t'side? Perhaps someone inna know will post their experience... Electric 7 cubic feet I have, and have much to learn - can't (practically) do big gas fired at our house; something like this torcher we could do, maybe someday, will stick to electric for now...
  3. I'm giving my 2 weeks notice tomorrow. My last day is May 10. 33 years with one job. I'm loading for firing now. Trying to gauge if I have enough done for 2 back to back firings, but I've never done that before. The kiln must be full, I don't know if I'll get a second or not.
  4. Definitely get the fiber that is supposed to be body soluble, but still wear the safety equipment.
  5. Today
  6. 1827G: any good for hobby potter?
  7. Some cement boards use a fiberglass like matt inside for strength . This material can be affected by heat. Check with the manufacture on how much heat it can take as Neil says. as to eco frendly fibe I'm not a believer -wear a mask installing it.
  8. In 3 years of spraying on greenware, I finally broke a piece 2 weeks ago. Had finished spraying a bowl then instead of cradling the bowl with both hands, I grabbed the rim to pick it up and the rim snapped off in a chunk in my hands. It is true "Haste makes waste".
  9. dhPotter


    Hey JohnnyK, Around the rim, where the glaze is lighter, is Strontium Crystal Magic Cool sprayed on. Then Pete's Seafoam is sprayed over the whole piece. The SCMC makes Pete's Seafoam go turquoise. Depending on thickness of Pete's Seafoam, on non-SCMC areas, will result in the varied amount of splotches. The army green color is where Pete's Seafoam is thinner. Thank you
  10. Ah'm readin't as 25 years + 1 month ...as in, a month ago was 99.67% fulltime
  11. That's what I was told a few years ago too; that it dissolves in your lungs and nasal passages. A quick google search shows that some are and some are not. I would err on the side of caution. https://www.unifrax.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/M0001.pdf https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/materials-science/ceramic-fiber
  12. JohnnyK


    What glazes & application methods did you use to achieve such a fantastic result?
  13. Hey Lee,,, don't you find it scary handling the greenware so much while glazing? What % of pieces do you break in the process? Are you dipping or brushing?
  14. As an aside, I note your comments about fibre, a lot of these products are now being marketed as "body soluble", should we take that with a pinch of salt? (and the proper ppe)
  15. Hi Neil, thank you for your quick response, yes it is just being used a s a protective outer skin if you like, the whole plot sitting in a frame of welded angle, regards, Daryl
  16. Hardie board is non-combustible, so it should work. It's just being used as a protective layer over the fiber blanket. I would double check with the manufacturer to confirm, though, and make sure it won't degrade with prolonged exposure to heat. You should calculate the temperature of the cold face of the fiber so you know how warm it will get. The brick and fiber manufacturers can help you with that. First figure out the temp of the cold face of the brick, then the fiber. Wear proper protection when working with fiber- respirator, gloves, goggles.
  17. Hello all, planning to make a gas kiln using the plans in Andrew Holdens book The Self Reliant Potter. The design calls for floor and walls of insulated fire brick, backed up with ceramic fibre blanket and then calcium silicate board on the outside, my question can I use hardie cement backer board in place of the calcium silicate board, main reason is hardie backer is cheap and readily available and calcium silicate board is not, the book was written some time ago so there may be more suitable modern substitutes I'm not aware of (in the UK). Grateful for any pointers, many thanks.
  18. Whatever you use for release, clean your new mould with vinegar, rinse well and allow to fully dry before casting.
  19. Not so much on the workbench, but finished and on the wall.
  20. I single-fire PC all the time--always get great results (same with Coyote). I usually program for slow-glaze. Just FYI, there is a Facebook Group for these glazes-often helpful & lots of photos of people's work. https://www.facebook.com/groups/potterschoiceex/
  21. All right, will definitely take into consideration. Im probably going to try out three different clays now, just because I am in the market for new clay and do not want to purchase 2,000lbs of clay that doesn't work well with some of my other glazes. Thanks for your help though, I have not had to take absorption into account for years (and honestly forgot to check it) Have a good day!
  22. I do not. I throw porcelain and prefer several but find it is a personal preference thing. Just wanted to get you thinking about absorption as well as trends in glaze fit.(not necessarily related) Typical, not always but typically functional potters target 0.5% and will accept 1%. When I learned - 3% leaks on your grandmothers antique piano, 2% probably, 1% maybe. Manufactures would love to sell 3% as being good enough That would be absorption rate, not shrinkage though.
  23. Yesterday
  24. 2% or under is fine, over 2% and you risk weeping, microwave issues, mold and mildew. What I hate is that the bodies I've tried that are closer to 1% are more finicky in the ole kiln. Bloatier when fired a little hot.
  25. Do you have any recommendations? I only really have Standard Clay near me. Also, most the mid-fire clays seem to be somewhere within the 1.25% to 2% shrinkage rate.
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