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  2. Pourable epoxy works wonders for the interior. Vases, not food grade stuff though.
  3. Hi guys, I have been trying raku firing at a center where I was introduced to ceramics few months ago, So far I have made some vessels but they are not suitale for water retention. I wonder if there is a way to make raku vessles waterproof? I have heard of a product called Thompson Water Seal in USA. and someone suggested to coat the vessel internally with a mixture of boiled starch so as to seal the clay. Any suggestion? I live in Europe, so any specific product I can get my hands on without incurring in huge import fees is very much appreciated :) Thanks for your inputs. Pierpaolo
  4. Really interesting handle crack, sort of opposite of normal. Usually we see the highest stressed area crack first which would be the outside of the handle. These appear to have been influenced by the cup body itself. One thing, great handle attachments they were able to resist a rotational moment!
  5. Fortunately opened kiln late when too tired to have any sort of energy wasting actions..but it did send sleep away forca few hours
  6. Wouldn't want to repeat it! I tried a slow fire to cone 5 yesterday and it was an hour shorter than my fast fire to cone 5, so I don't really know what I'm going to find when I get home from work tonight... I could open it up and see a bunch of nice pieces... Or open it up and start throwing things... Hopefully somewhere in the middle as usual hah. 36 mugs and a vase.
  7. That's my thoughts. cold night top bung out.. occurred throughout the kiln....more good ones lower down. but still cracks bottom shelf top loader... I usually fire first ramp 100degC to 600 then 150 to 1100. only change I did... can't even repeat it to check.ha!
  8. Today
  9. Wow bummer, do you think the power outage caused some mischief around quartz inversion? Pretty rare to see cracking like that
  10. I would like to have glaze chemistry sorted. A time to just indulge in the study of this. Did quite a lot of chemistry but life gets in the way of canning it in glazes at the mo. If you ever read of a 100 plus yr old attaining a phd in this field it may be me:-)))) I guess a strength would be never getting'floored' by results and a brain which is a bit like a dog with a bone when it comes to problems... and. knowing something might just work but may not and doing it anyway....
  11. suely not Min! You hide that well:-))) And others appreciate and benefit from you attributes!
  12. SOfirst time event for old potter. I packed kiln with mugs and bowls. Yes a different glaze but also same clay same ish design old tried and true glaze on half the mugs. some mugs had additions of clay molded pieces attached also. Kiln and scheduled for usual ramping. c 6 firing finishing at 8.30 a.m. one top bung left out. 2 a.m. , I am an old potter used to manually turning up every hour, kiln temp. 480deg. Power out sometime between then and 6.30a.m...no alarm to awaken the sleeping potter..temp 350degC..reprogrammed kiln to go up to 1100 at150C/hr and then usual schedule of 80dc/hr to end and a 15 hold. top bung in. Folk have said it's ok to go this fast , right? I never have before. Result I have12 whole mugs out of 40. rest have a BEAUTIFULLY horizontal crack in middle of handle starting from underside of handle , not quite through the handle so it looks whole from above.Crack is sharp. Second cooling v. slow, finished firing sunday arvo, opened last night. Occurring in both designs and both glazes Bowls crack straight across bottom. ah it's never boring!
  13. All too often, the college courses for teachers, and non Ceramics majors was negligent on glaze chemistry. Possibly for the lack of appropriate teachers, lack in belief that students needed or even cared about it, and as budget required efficiency, was left out of the curriculum for lack of enrollment. I never had one on glaze chemistry, only a general that told us to read Nelson's chapter on glaze chemistry and be ready for a quiz that never occurred. Oh well! best, Pres
  14. You might find some insights to the physics of the tea-pot dribbling phenomena by reading the recently published article (and all of the articles cited therein): I'm a little teapot — Dribble no more: Physics can help combat that pesky “teapot effect” Dutch scientists devised a model to predict flow rate when dribbling will occur. Jennifer Ouellette - 5/17/2019, 5:45 AM https://arstechnica.com/science/2019/05/dribble-no-more-physics-can-help-combat-that-pesky-teapot-effect/ LT
  15. There are so many things I could answer with here but, like Denice, I'm focusing on glazing. While I've taken college level Cer 1& 2, I learned more about glazing in the Raku class, having to mix my own glazes as part of the syllabus. In the other classes we were directed towards the 20 gallon buckets of glaze and their samples and were told to knock ourselves out…
  16. @ronfire, you could try posting that you are looking for a used wheel in the forum Community Marketplace. Might be someone with one for sale in BC. I know there is someone in Mission BC with those wheels for sale and I believe she is asking about the same price.
  17. Forward cant of this spout helps gravity pull this down and away for most all pouring conditions. Nice design!
  18. Just needs to have a sharp edge. Often easiest to do after bisque as the clay can be block sanded to create a very uniform sharp transition at the front edge. Less surface attachment better chance for gravity to rip it away cleanly. Interesting point, next time you are at a shopping center look up at the ceiling of most canopies (Stucco type). It’s common to place a V groove a few inches in from the edge so as the water rolls around the canopy edge to the canopy ceiling it has to go back uphill into the V groove. This gives gravity time to do its work. Worst case, pitchers could sport the same groove just under the trailing edge of the spout but in the end some liquid would roll down the pitcher. It would only be a fail safe against extended pouring dribbles. Basically anything you do to make this pouring angle more acute and sharp gives gravity an advantage for a clean separation.
  19. I wish I had more glaze chemistry in my studies. I took a second level glaze class but my professor was tired of teaching it so he turned it into a history class. I tried to take it again but there was always a waiting list, I had already passed it so I was at the bottom of the list every year. I kept a tight watch on my required classes, I didn't want to pay for one that wasn't needed, but I was willing to pay for this class again. I thought it was that important. Denice
  20. Your rounded rim is not so much a problem, but the entire spout set up is. There are a few steps you can take to make it work better: start the throat of the pitcher about a third of the way down the form. use the thumb and curved forefinger to shape the spout once the shape you have presently by pulling upwards with the thumb inside the spout and the curved forefinger outside, use lots of water and pull so that the spout rises and things slightly. . not so thin as to become weak, just enough to shape and thin the rim. Lastly on the spout use a damp finger on the inside of the spout rubbing back and forth to slightly widen the spout where at the rim. Last step is to use the finger around the untouched rim to move it slightly lower than the area of the spout, this I usually do on the wheel with the wheel speed slow, first finger inside hooked over the top . Hope my description is helpful, best, Pres
  21. Thanks, was thinking I might try a ridiculous low offer and see what happens. Everyone wants a fortune for used wheels in BC. Might be worth a try as I am using an Estrin powered kick wheel now.
  22. It looks like thinner is the direction I will go, thanks guys, I'll let you know how it goes.
  23. I have one in my classroom, and it's the best wheel we have. It's a real workhorse, and has tolerated probably about thirty years of teenagers, which says a lot. That is too high of a price, for sure. I've noticed that a lot of people over price wheels and kilns, when selling them. They apparently think they are sitting on something rare, or are using the price that a new one would go for. If you can get it for a cheaper price, I'd go for it, otherwise, pass.
  24. I remember the packaging, this was probably 15 years ago or more. They did make an overglaze material, and it was fired to a lower temp over a pre-fired glazed piece. SC has gotten out of most of these glaze products preferring to use 3 rd party manufacturers it seems. My humble opinion, best, Pres
  25. Call Standard and see if they have any info on it.
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