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  2. Only thing I see is in agreement that Catenary are self supporting and yours appears to be hemispherical which generally requires buttressing.
  3. Min is right, I was assuming this is a glaze recipe so if not, wadding / wash very common even the proportions in wadding and wash are far less critical than a glaze.
  4. If you are making kiln wash then either would be fine. Alumina hydrate contains approx 30% water so if the recipe is for kiln wash you could cut back on the oxide.
  5. Generally the answer would be no. Alumina oxide is difficult at best to evenly disperse and keep as such in your recipe. Sourcing alumina oxide from clay and feldspars is the preferred way. Rarely if ever will the use of alumina oxide work in a repeatable fashion. Alumina Hydrate however is used on occasion as a source and will disperse better. Hydrates of alumina contain varying amounts of water so figuring out the concentration required as it relates to the product you have is something to be aware of.
  6. I have alumina oxide but recipe calls for alumina hydrate. Can I use this to substitute?
  7. Want to create a small studio space in my backyard. Looking to buy a working wheel and small Kiln from someone. I'm around the Portland, OR area and willing to drive an hour or two to buy/meet to buy these. Thanks so much.
  8. Yesterday
  9. Well I was going thru some ancient files and found my orginal metal tag from my model C wheel I bought from Robert Brent himself when I was in high school. The metal tag says Robert Brent Potters Wheels 1101 Cedar Street,Santa Monica Ca 90405 serail #2471 What I recall about this place its was a 3 room house in a reagualr neighborhood (run down) One room had a pile of motors and some fellow long hairs where weilding the wheel frames in the garage and grinding them flat. (no plastic tops but perfectly flat formica glued on 3/8 steel deck. one room had wheel heads and splash pans which were galvanized sheet metal Brent was a wiry red headed small guy with lots of energy This is where he and his dad started the company.Before they moved North to Healdsburg Ca. Turns out I move before them in 1971 to Blue Lake north of Eureka. I used to get clay from them and wheel stuff while driving but in the early 70s before he sold it all to Amaco. I paid $270 for this wheel back then. It has a different motor /foot pedal-newer pullys and controller. Most of that was free or low cost. He changed foot pedal designs within a few years of me buying it.Now all parts are pretty costly. Back in the day I knew all the repair guys by 1st name.Those where the days.
  10. Still sorry to have you leave Tom-I see this theft all the time -the trick is to let it roll off. The good of the community and the knowledge base is lost every time one of us leaves the forum .
  11. I am as well. I am near the Portland, OR area. I am willing to drive up to 2 hours to pick it up/meet someone. Also looking for a small Skutt kiln that is in good working use. Possibly someone who has outgrown theirs and wants to sell to buy a bigger one?
  12. Actually Mark, your email convinced me to make one more post. The reason I am disconnecting is at the bottom. I cut and pasted this from the Crystalline Glaze forum- to where I just posted it under my user name there. ------------- Actually Gordon, I have been reading about the effects of PH on ionic exchange; in part the theory behind a terra Sig. Norton (M.I.T.) and Lawrence & Buttons (Alfred) did the original studies on slip starting in 1948-1974. Norton actually started the whole sodium silicate/terra sig when he was studying the effects of PH on the water hull. He wrote the "stretched membrane" theory in 1948: the basis of modern slip chemistry. Norton describes the measured effects of sodium silicate in solution: resulting in a particle range from 0.14 to 0.57 microns..or in pottery terms 30,000 mesh. If you are a big terra sig person: first buy Taylor ball clay from a Old Hickory Clay Co. In Kentucky. OM4 has a median particle size of 0.67, and Taylor 0.31. Which means you will get over twice the payload for your efforts. With freight, Taylor will cost you 0.50 cents a lb- but they sell 50lb bags only. Second is an ionic charge trick I will teach you. Lawrence and a Buttons also wrote on the effects of temperature on ionic charge. At 60F, the ionic charge that suspends those fine particles potters want in terra sig drops by 1/3, which directly effects the amount produced. However, at 140F, the ionic charge is at its peak: which means the quality of fine particles held in suspension is much higher- resulting in more yield. The trick: heat the water to 135-140F ( but no higher), add your sodium silicate first- then your Taylor ( or OM4). In 1-2 hours when it cools back to room temp 75 or so. Siphon off the goodies as usual. You now have more sig in two hours than in 24 hours. So remember folks- you heard it here first. As other potters hack the info from this site and add it to theirs and claim a great discovery- you heard it hear first. Enjoy Gordon tom. - was going to make a CM article out of this... But hey. Several recent threads on image theft, cultural theft: but theft of intellectual property is never mentioned.
  13. Looks like a burry box design? sort of. aches need support as they want to blow outward,Catanary arches are self supporting .
  14. welcome, andy. "tonne" tells me you are probably not in the USA. i am inferring that you have tested this particular clay by mixing, making and firing it to your satisfaction. there are several books that i have read that talk about this process. one written by an englishman in the 1970-80 period. i cannot remember the name of the book or the author but i know someone here mentioned it last year. the green cover shows a teapot and the theme of the book is that you can build a lot of your own tools and save money by firing with cooking grease from local restaurants. i knew a potter who slaked his clay down a series of wooden troughs that had wire screening starting with large openings at the top and working down to small square wire we call ratwire. it is used in places like under a porch to prevent animals from getting in. will look for the title and author. edit found it The self-reliant potter by Andrew Holden, 1986. maybe you can find it in your local libray.
  15. sadly, art teacher has only entered the question then disappeared.
  16. The top two switches appear to be the elements that heat up the extension ring. Is there a separate plug on the top that plugs into the electrical box on the main kiln body?
  17. Hi Forum, I am looking for pointers to good systems for processing dug clay. The clay I have looks good but to prepare any reasonable quantity takes time and effort. So before I move to preparing larger quantities I'd like to see how people do it. It will be a low-tech approach. I have read that people use tanks containing water and raw, unwashed clay which is soaked and agitated to put the clay in suspension. This clay bearing water is then run through a system of troughs and settlement pools. I am hoping that there are some books/photos/diagrams/detailed descriptions showing what an array of of this type might look like. How and where is organic material filtered out? If there is any way of getting gravity to help move the materials that would be good. Ways of agitating the clay which don't consume all your energy? I have heard it said that it is better to weather and dry the clay and then crush the clay before rehydrating. But I have no idea why. And drying and crushing takes time and energy. Any cheap mechanical aids? I expect to be processing about a tonne of raw clay in one pass. Thanks in advance Andy K
  18. thanks for replies @oldlady yes, we use metric system, the dimentions on the drawings are in cm. @terrim8 Unfortunately I have not read that book, but I will buy it now. It is a bit late for fundamental changes because I'm going to continue my work on Monday. My main source of knowledge was the reading of Ian Gregory "Kiln building", but it is not too much detailed.unfrotunatelly @Rae Reich My arch is going to follow regular circle (180 degrees). What kind of bracing, which you mention, would be needed? Should I rather turn again into more tall and narrow catenary curve? I do not plan to cut the bricks into wedges, just fill the upper gaps with clay in regular distances. Will it work?
  19. If it is a Skutt kiln, they have great tutorials on their website. You also have to have the correct wiring for your kiln. Hopefully you checked with your school maintanence people before getting the kiln. If not, the voltage amp info should be listed on the outside of the kiln. Are there other art teachers in the area that might be able to help you? good luck
  20. Hi Dianen - Neophyte here myself - been throwing less than a year and have only posted once before! Although the focus has been on equipment, I wonder how much you're paying attention to your own physical health and constraints. As we get - ahem - older, we tend to lose flexibility and muscle strength. Doing close work and sitting for long periods of time in restricted positions also tends to do its damage by shortening muscles and reducing range of motion. It's highly captivating and we often find ourselves having sitting in a particular position for an hour or more. I sometimes find myself bent over a wheel for 45 minutes or more and then having trouble standing up straight! I'm not a physician but I have my own share of upper back and neck problems so try to stay aware of what might be causing them. Getting up from your work every half hour or so and doing some stretching exercises is not a bad idea. I did a quick search and there's even a video devoted to stretching exercises for artists that focuses on hands, arms, and neck: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DEf5AGef4yI There are others out there even by this particular physician. We all know the benefits of exercise, ie stretching and load bearing (lifting weights). Good equipment - the ones we buy and the ones we're born with - need some good care and attention. Just some thoughts from an aspiring and aging potter... - Jeff
  21. LT: there are 100 plus references to journals, thesis, books, and other resources on the effects of temp on clay bodies. https://books.google.com/books?id=pQpCDCPqlS4C&pg=PA58&lpg=PA58&dq=W.H.+Sutton;+factors+influencing+the+strength+of+clay+bodies&source=bl&ots=AfkxuypAxo&sig=ACfU3U2W_Zh8NTluxpwvcnIN4zVOWBV3vw&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjB-_rwj7jiAhUPnq0KHaUpC_YQ6AEwAXoECAQQAQ#v=onepage&q=W.H. Sutton%3B factors influencing the strength of clay bodies&f=false you need to hire a research assistant: I am a little busy. as I have told you in PM before- W.G. Lawrence " Ceramic Science for the Potter." F.H. Norton " Fine Ceramics, Technology and Application". And the book referenced above are the best encapsulated information resources. For the record: I have journal references lying all over the place in my various threads. Feel free to go find them. Long past tired of having post proof every time I make technical posts. Tom
  22. Yes indeed! You'll only make the mistake of touching them once though I just use the end of a post or anything that's handy to swing them aside.
  23. (Sorry Bill, I broke my two cup rule. Never answer questions until I finish the second cup.) if that coffee where stronger (fresh ground beans) only one cup would be nessacary.
  24. In 1979, I paid $1000 for a catenary 12 cu ft hardbrick kiln and assorted shelves and glazes. 'Course, it had to be mapped, disassembled, hauled across town in an ancient pickup (stop loading when tires distort), bricks cleaned and reassembled. Oh, we were an energetic crew of potters and friends!
  25. Last week
  26. you probably already have this book but just in case.....https://www.amazon.com/Kiln-Book-Frederick-L-Olsen/dp/0812221869 prob lots of answers in there I used to have a gas burner ca ternary arch brick kiln and i had to reduce the size of the flue opening - a friend helped me - I probably should have read the book!
  27. congratulations on summoning up the courage to get started! i assume that the numbers are measurements, do you use metric in Poland?
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