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  1. Today
  2. This is all very helpful. The slab roller is still just an idea, since I have several more time critical projects to tackle. However, if I do decide to build one, I will probably not be worried about using chain drive.
  3. Hello. What about regular pastels or chalks? I am going to be doing some experimenting with kids and I cannot afford to play with the big boys this summer. Thanks in advance. SG
  4. And then keep it full? Bottom of the handle on the wall passing through the center of gravity is the go to for large pouring pots but is it necessary for the average sized mug?
  5. Hi Neil, Actually I ve been recently trying my last chance in requesting for quotation from the companies from China in order to insulation bricks.Here in Turkey,for one piece of JM26 I need to pay 4.19$ so ıf considered that would be needed 800-1000 pieces for building,ıt costs too much for me.But ıf I find an opportunity to buy the same product with average quality from China,I may be dealed with building it by myself. Have you ever heard that someone has bought refractory from China?
  6. For $1000, converting an old used electric would be the way to go. Don't forget about venting costs, too, if you plan on putting the kiln indoors. That alone could cost $1000.
  7. Clay Coyote in Hutchinson, MN has be making a line of flameware for a few years now. No technical info on their site, but good assortment of specialty forms like grill pans and tagines.
  8. Another tip most people try to balance the feel of the handle with the mug empty. I see people pick up an empty mug and be like oh the balance feels so good. But really that mug is off balance if it feels good empty. Need to actually fill it with water or coffee to see how it really holds.
  9. No, it didn’t warp when I stuck it together it was off a little depending on what angle you look, I figured I’d just go with it sometimes you have to know when to quit. The glaze is cream with speckles dusted with red/gold.
  10. Yesterday
  11. Yes maybe you right Patrick.My Brother who is ceramist either,also tells me that we should better buy an old kiln and restore it instead of buying or building a new one. But I really want to design a new one what I like and use for long years.I dont know yet what future will bring,it is still on researching stage..
  12. Hi Boris, It is really great work you had done.I ll definetely consider your work after I got my ultimate decision.I am still at the researching stage. Thank you for your precious sharing!
  13. Hi Mark, İt goes to 1250 °C. Yes,you competely right about shelve size is very important point before building.I want to build a kiln which allows me to fire stoneware and porcelain both if this would be possible but my priority is 1100 °C
  14. This one looks more balanced. As everyone else has said ......... and If you ask 10 potters for an opinion, you'll get 12 different answer.
  15. Ok its been asked here more times than I can recall Since it the season coming on here is some info on this. Weather its a cooking BBQ or just a pot for the stove top. Its requires special clay and glaze to handle the thermo expansion I have a friend who uses one from Mexico on the stove top-the trick is slow LOW heat ROBBIE LOBELL Is the queen of this work You can view her clay body and some glazes here https://studiopotter.org/flameware-journey
  16. With #1 Pottery Plaster, you'll need 16.316 grams of plaster per cubic inch. Plaster to water ratio is 10:7 by weight.
  17. Last week
  18. OK… Take a couple of 1x4s and nail them to the sides and the front of your table top, calculate the volume, mix a little more plaster than your calculation and pour it into the frame. then take a stiff straight edge, and skim the top level and let it set up. Voila...you have a wedging table.
  19. Also where its attached to mug body matters a lot. To low attachment and you are fighting a heavy mug of fluids .Teacups are a good example of this. The one finger is holding all the teacup weight. I feel you want not to be leveraging the weight so I attach nearer the rim. My handlke always are below rim but my thumbspots often get above rim on handles.
  20. Exactly about the air space. A handle further away from the body doesn't give more room for fingers or make it anymore comfortable to hold, it just moves the hand further from the center of gravity. It puts a lot more strain on the connection points of the handle, is harder to hold without tipping when full of liquid, and rarely looks aesthetic. Even the really freaky handles like small flat squares protruding from the side of a cylinder look good as long as they're close to that 1/3rd measurement. I've seen some pretty crazy handles that still look great aesthetically!
  21. This is my current wedging table. It’s very sturdy since the legs are metal. I am just planning on adding plaster to the top wood section.
  22. I constantly remember how my first professor would go on and on about how a handle should be small enough not to look like an ear on the side of the pot, but large enough to get 2-3 fingers into it. I really was not a big fan of his, but some things keep coming back. I have tried to make mine fit my hand and have a comfortable angle from lifting straight across, or from slightly above. best, Pres
  23. When you have your finger(s) in the handle, whether it's one or 4 all you need is a small amount of air space between the body of the mug and your fingers. Big loopy handles are awkward, especially if you have small hands, a round cross section of handle can lead to the mug not feeling secure when you hold it, the mug likes to roll. Strap shaped handles are nice if the edges are rounded over, if you put the tip of your index finger against the tip of your thumb and make an even edged almond shape that shape seems to work well also. I like having the edges of the handles mirror the thinness of the very top of the rim and then having the middle section a bit thicker. Just make a few hundred mugs and it'll get to be second nature, some will just feel more comfortable.
  24. Thank you all for the input... Sounds like 1/3 of the overall width, or 1/2 the diameter of the mug cylinder, is the base-line - with variations from there for style/form. I think the main thing I need to work on is consistency. I've started measuring as I throw, so the mugs are pretty consistent - maybe a short piece of tubing between the mug and handle as I'm attaching the bottom will help me get the handles more uniform. While I don't think any of these four are terrible - I definitely think the one on the light background, and the dark blue/gray one look like they 'fit' the mug better than the other two.
  25. Mehmet, before you make your decision, read the e-book: 21st Century Kilns. You can download a copy from the Paragon website https://www.paragonweb.com/manualinfo.cfm?cid=212 The book covers specific topics not covered in Olsen’s book. LT
  26. Pete Pinnell discusses cups and how folks handle cups differently at around 22:20. It's a bit more than I need to know about cups but definitely worth the time.
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