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  2. This is what you want. My advise would be 20-25% pulp. That's what I use in my paper slip for all joinery. http://www.twinrocker.com/index.html
  3. You can use glaze calculation software to replace it with a boron frit. Gerstley is mainly silica, calcium and boron with some sodium
  4. Does anyone have any ideas of how to get Gerstley Borate in China without shipping or what is an effective replacement for it in Raku glazes?
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  6. You're simply stretching strands of gluten in kneading bread, that's why a bread maker just whacks it around for a while. Too much kneading and your bread will be too hard and chewy to eat, too little and it'll be more like cake. I dont think there's a good comparison in clay, the word is just shared due to the traditional movements being similar. Bread is homogenized when it's mixed
  7. Thanks, all. Guess I should have been more specific. I'm familiar with the various types of wedging. I learned to cone, which was described as pre-aligning the clay platelets in a spiral before throwing, as well as conditioning the clay and homogenizing it. So, the object of bread kneading - is it just to homogenize? @neilestrick's recipe seems to rely on moisture alone. For breads that need kneading, how does that action, motion differ from ram's head wedging? Am I conditioning/homogenizing but not necessarily aligning molecules? Do I just need to whack it around like the bread machine does?
  8. I know this isn't a very specific answer. I usually pug clay wetter than is comfortable to throw and let it age to where I like it. Still soft. Personally, I think it could be pretty sloppy. Not slip slop, maybe.
  9. Hello! I'm getting deeper into 3D printing ceramics, and am considering purchasing a de-airing pug mill to make loading clay easier and to reduce air bubbles (which cause mayhem). I do need fairly high water content in porcelain clay -- probably 23%, possibly as high as 24%. I've heard that pug mills don't like very wet clay and can fail to mix/pug, with the auger failing to drive wet clay through the de-airing and extrusion stages. But I have not been able to get specific guidance on how much water is too much. Pug mill vendors and 3D printer makers alike have pretty much said "it depends, it's hard to say," and I don't blame them... but I also don't want to invest that kind of money if it's unlikely to be a viable solution. So, my questions: Does anyone have hard numbers on maximum water content that still works in any particular brand of pug mill? Would flocculating too-wet clay make any difference in its mixability / puggability? Would adjusting plasticity higher or lower make any difference? Thanks!
  10. @GEP Always been a fan of your aesthetic Mea. Are those metal handles, on the teapots?
  11. Hi Hi. thanks for this tip- I am wanting to find a source of the cotton linter that you are referring to. Can someone help me please. Many thanks!
  12. Did you say you were planning a dive trip to Bali?  I don't dive any more, but my long time fishing buddy just got back from there.  He also recently sold the most beautiful boat on the west coast, so I am without a ride.  Check one of the picture he sent from Bali and guess what it is.

    P3190089 (2)_resized.JPG

  13. Well, that article addresses pretty much every question I have had - bookmarking it! Thanks again, Mark!
  14. Since it is already mixed up would you advise diluting with water (or perhaps even a bit of the slip mixture) and adding it that way? I will continue to try to digest the super-dense digital fire article (thanks for posting) and do some more research on Darvan. So many variables to keep in mind.
  15. I've heard Rams Head called duck bill, which may be a closer description
  16. Darvan can help read this 1st https://digitalfire.com/4sight/education/understanding_the_deflocculation_process_in_slip_casting_213.html
  17. Thanks, Mark. I will continue to fiddle with it - I just got worried when A. Martin said it wouldn't work at all. I might do as you suggest and mix another batch with grolleg and then combine a bit of each to see what that looks like. I mixed 14 gallons because I dislike doing it and so just try to do as much as I can at once. It's always a learning experience, which is one of the reasons I keep doing it! The only real difficulty is the settling - it is almost instantaneous and it seems like the bottom of the cast piece is always heavier than the higher sides. Would adding Darvan help with the suspension? I appreciate your thoughtful response.
  18. In my College Ceramics book, they also referred to Spiral Wedging as " Chrysanthemum " wedging. (Yes I had to look up how to spell that, despite the fact I read that children's book, to my daughter hundreds of times...) I would say you are probably right Pres. The steps in Cone and Spiral wedging are the same. You just don't really get the large disc, with smaller amounts of clay. At the very least, both end the same way. With Spiral wedging, it becomes a cone, with the finishing passes. So, it's probably just a matter of semantics. I will also note, that when I explain why "Ram's Head" is called that, most of my students don't really see the "Ram" Who would expect Art students to have some imagination?...
  19. You can see the differeance at Digital fire.com-somewaht minor I just looked them up You will notice minor changes but if your test pieces work I would jusat use the material-they are both fine kaolins The big story is ceramics is to pay attention-it happens to us all sooner or later. I just toosed out 1/3 of a kiln load with a glaze mistake-the pots and the glaze and started over. In ceramics all the details matter-so always double check everything I would avoid the soda ash as it can damage the plaster over time.You could also make another batch with the grolleg and dilute your other batch.I doubt you will notice much difference with the two batches. Mixing up two kinds of kaolins is no big deal really How many gallons is your batch size?? work off a materials list next time you go to the store-hand them a list with it written out. Instead of removing water add a little more material to batch to thicken Getting the specific gravity right and using dry molds is the most important part. Darvan is your best choice over soda ash
  20. Hello! I have run into a problem making casting slip. I have been using a tried and true recipe from an instructor several years ago for a casting slip that calls for grolleg kaolin. I mixed up a new batch and did not realize that when I said grolleg, the guy at the sales counter heard EPK. I thought when I saw the bag that perhaps it was from a different supplier so added it. Realizing that it was not at all the same in color and substance, I did some quick research and saw that it is essentially the same but will shrink a little more than the grolleg. Okay, cool. I can deal with that as I am experimenting with slip casting anyway, so I added it as I was in the middle of it all and did not want to put it all away again. But then when I got home I looked in the Andrew Martin book he said it will not work at all because it holds on to the water and will cause the casting to have a thin wall and be brittle. So now: do I toss my batch and spend another $100 on supplies or would you attempt some sort of save? I did cast one small plate as a test and I didn't notice any extra brittleness, though it did take longer to cast. It will be going through bisque fire in the next day or so, which might help me decide. The only other thing that I noticed is that it immediately starts to settle and turn into oobleck on the bottom of the bucket. The specific gravity is 1.6, which is a lot lower than normal. I was trying to decide whether to let it evaporate for a while and then add some Darvan or SS (though I made it with a bit of soda ash which I have heard doesn't play well with Darvan). Or maybe I just start over and learn to look more carefully at what they are loading in my car. Thanks in advance for any advice or knowledge you can impart.
  21. As I mentioned in the Events section, I have a big show coming up soon. Lots of good stuff coming out of the kilns now.
  22. I had always thought that cone wedging was the same as spiral, just occurred with smaller amounts of clay. Semantics I guess. best, Pres
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