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  2. ( oils can clog the pores of the plaster making the mold less effective,) this can happen unless you use a non oil based release https://www.axner.com/pure-lube.aspx
  3. Thanks all for the adivice! I think I may be demolding too early, it seems like the problem is the plaster not setting well or not fully set. Somewhere I read that I should demold when the mold is warm, but perhaps that’s wrong, has anyone else done that? Could also be too much soap, thats a good thought. I have been avoiding oil-based mold release agents on the advice that the oils can clog the pores of the plaster making the mold less effective, but maybe it’s time to give those a try.
  4. If the pot is porous it will take in moisture which will cause and exacerbate crazing over time. @Brandon Franks, try email yourself the photo in a smaller size then post that image, file should be smaller.
  5. Would the fact that there is a wide firing range with that clay have something to do with the glaze not fitting at the temp you are firing?? Just wondering. Roberta
  6. Definitely will try that if I can't get the issue solved.
  7. I Keep trying to, but am having trouble uploading a file. If you want, I could maybe email you a photo of the crazing.
  8. I actually dip but use multiple layers. However, I see most the crazing on the inside. I was actually looking to switch up my clay body, do you have any suggestions that work good with layering glaze. Sorry if I am asking a lot, I have never felt with commercial glazes before and it is quite annoying. I am just going to stick to making my own in the future. I am trying to post a picture but keep getting told the size is too big...
  9. You can call mnclay and ask what clay bodies are compatible with the glazes you like and then switch to that clay.
  10. I think it's the same, I make kimchi, sauerkraut and kombucha and they don't need to be air tight, they just need to be covered. I mean some people are really afraid of a bad ferment, but ive never had a problem smelling or seeing if something was off! I think airlocks are just in the interest of extra safety. Once lactobacillus takes hold in a lactobacillus ferment (kombucha, kimchi, sauerkraut, etc) or aspergillus in an aspergillus ferment (sake, tempeh, miso, etc), it's really hard for any baddies to get a hold. But for miso, a weight is placed on top of the beans to keep them under the liquid (tamari), and this keeps them from being a host for fungi. So the byproduct of the digested beans kind of acts like the airlock. Same with kimchi, although it never lasts long enough in my house to grow anything but delicious!
  11. That makes it much more difficult to try and fix. If the craze lines are spaced far apart there is a slim chance you could correct the crazing with some added silica. Could you post a picture of the crazing? If you do want to try the silica fix it's going to take some testing by weighing out glaze then adding a small percentage of silica, dipping a test tile and repeating with increasing amounts of silica. Might be easier to try a different claybody you could try instead. Regarding that Standard 101 Buff clay, if the absorption has a posted figure of 0.75% at cone 9 then it might be high enough to be an issue for mugs, vases etc at cone 6. How to run an absorption test here. It's always a good idea to do your own absorption tests rather than relying on what the manufacturer posts.
  12. With brushing commercial glazes, you're pretty much stuck. You can't get the recipe. You can either accept the crazing or try a different clay body. Crazing isn't necessarily a deal breaker, though, if the clay body is vitrified. Layering glazes complicates it even more. It's nearly impossible to get layered glazes to work perfectly, because two glazes that don't craze on their own may craze when layered.
  13. Welcome to the forum Tess! Maybe yes, maybe no, try it and see what happens with your claybody. Fire slowly until you get past bisque temperatures then continue as a glaze firing.
  14. Ok must be a different process. My daughter in law makes fermented vegies , sauerkraut amd a femented drink and needs/uses jars with airlocks to keep out unwanted gremlins but a positive. Pressure may do same. I guess the water airlock ones burb on their own...
  15. This is actually the first time I am using store bought glazes. I usually just make my own, but I love some of the combinations these glazes have when layered. All of them are from Continental Clay and Minnesota Clay. Sadly, I am unable to obtain the glaze recipes at this time, but I can give you my clay and its specifications. I use a Standard 101 Buff Clay C/02-9 Cone 02 Shrinkage 9.0% Absorption 4.5% Cone 9 Shrinkage 12.0% Absorption 0.75% Again, I fire to ^6 on the slow setting. Thanks for all the replies, I have never had experience with commercial or crazing glaze, so this is very helpful, Brandon (I will provide a list and link to the glazes, if that helps anyone) Twighlight Blue* https://www.continentalclay.com/detail.php?cat_id=425&sub_categoryID=&PID=1399 Matalic Green Gloss White* https://www.mnclay.com/AddToCart2.aspx?ProductGroup=HG7 BT12- Black NG12- Floting B Ng10- Espresso Buttercream* https://www.continentalclay.com/detail.php?cat_id=425&sub_categoryID=&PID=1399 *- all that I am able to tell have crazed
  16. Doesn't need to be air tight! But there will be lugs on the side and a notch along the lid so it can be wired or tied shut.
  17. Hey liam how are you making them airtight. One I am toying with making has a split lip leaving room to place lid and still fill with water for an air seal
  18. Can Amaco Potters Choice glaze be used on greenware and fired only once at Cone 5 or 6?
  19. Yesterday
  20. Publish your glaze recipe and I am fairly sure you will get some help here.
  21. Changing your firing schedule won't help. You'll have to tweak your glaze if you want to get rid of the crazing.
  22. The glaze is crazing, a hold won't help. If the craze lines are tight, it means it's pretty far off from being compatible. Not sure if it's too far for quick fixes like boron or silica. You can read some articles on digitalfire.com about crazing, it's very informative.
  23. Okay, a little update. I found that my white glaze (which I just made a new batch of) is crazing. The crazing lines are fairly close together. One thing that is different about the white glaze is the thickness. It is very thin, but that is the only thing that is different from normal. Are there any tips to prevent crazing. Maybe I should do a short hold at cone 6? Your advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Brandon
  24. This week I will be making some three pound fermentation vessels. I think I need to make a dozen or so jars for my wife and her group of friends. I'm hoping to also get through 30 mugs this week. Made a video of me making the fermentation jars, or at least the first exploration of the form, can watch if you are interested in seeing me throw cylinders poorly, haha
  25. Thank you all for answering me, your advice has been very helpful. I'm going to communicate with the Shimpo provider, to let them know my problem. And I wrote down the name of the reliable stores that you so kindly have given me. Greetings from Perú
  26. Hi, not sure how old this post is but I have questions regarding silver nitrate glazes and light sensitivity. Last fall I glazed a number of bisque fired pieces with a gold raku glaze (that contains silver nitrate) then my kiln broke down and I wasn't able to fire everything that day. My kiln is located quite a distance from my home so the kiln break down meant I couldn't fire on that trip --- flash forward to six months later. I'm about to go fix the kiln and fire at the end of the week. Those pieces from last fall have been sitting in a closed cardboard box for that long. The spots that had the gold glaze on them are now, as expected, dark brown. First question - I realize that the silver nitrate is light sensitive as it turns colour quite quickly but does that mean that it loses its effect completely? I read somewhere that even when it had turned colour it was still usable - that came from the internet - so it must be true LOL - Anyone have any thoughts/knowledge on this? My plan was to reglaze the pieces - just putting more glaze on top - then firing as usual. I figure if nothing else it will be a grand experiment. It would be great if I could engineer it enough to end up with something sellable though. So the questions... Should I try to remove the old glaze? I'm worried that if I try to wash them then the old glaze will get on the whole piece instead of just where I put it and make a bit of a mess of things. Should I try to scrape it off? Is it worth the persnickety work that would be? If there's any good advice out there - I'd love to hear it. Thanks in advance Anna
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