Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. OK… Take a couple of 1x4s and nail them to the sides and the front of your table top, calculate the volume, mix a little more plaster than your calculation and pour it into the frame. then take a stiff straight edge, and skim the top level and let it set up. Voila...you have a wedging table.
  3. Also where its attached to mug body matters a lot. To low attachment and you are fighting a heavy mug of fluids .Teacups are a good example of this. The one finger is holding all the teacup weight. I feel you want not to be leveraging the weight so I attach nearer the rim. My handlke always are below rim but my thumbspots often get above rim on handles.
  4. Exactly about the air space. A handle further away from the body doesn't give more room for fingers or make it anymore comfortable to hold, it just moves the hand further from the center of gravity. It puts a lot more strain on the connection points of the handle, is harder to hold without tipping when full of liquid, and rarely looks aesthetic. Even the really freaky handles like small flat squares protruding from the side of a cylinder look good as long as they're close to that 1/3rd measurement. I've seen some pretty crazy handles that still look great aesthetically!
  5. Today
  6. This is my current wedging table. It’s very sturdy since the legs are metal. I am just planning on adding plaster to the top wood section.
  7. I constantly remember how my first professor would go on and on about how a handle should be small enough not to look like an ear on the side of the pot, but large enough to get 2-3 fingers into it. I really was not a big fan of his, but some things keep coming back. I have tried to make mine fit my hand and have a comfortable angle from lifting straight across, or from slightly above. best, Pres
  8. When you have your finger(s) in the handle, whether it's one or 4 all you need is a small amount of air space between the body of the mug and your fingers. Big loopy handles are awkward, especially if you have small hands, a round cross section of handle can lead to the mug not feeling secure when you hold it, the mug likes to roll. Strap shaped handles are nice if the edges are rounded over, if you put the tip of your index finger against the tip of your thumb and make an even edged almond shape that shape seems to work well also. I like having the edges of the handles mirror the thinness of the very top of the rim and then having the middle section a bit thicker. Just make a few hundred mugs and it'll get to be second nature, some will just feel more comfortable.
  9. Thank you all for the input... Sounds like 1/3 of the overall width, or 1/2 the diameter of the mug cylinder, is the base-line - with variations from there for style/form. I think the main thing I need to work on is consistency. I've started measuring as I throw, so the mugs are pretty consistent - maybe a short piece of tubing between the mug and handle as I'm attaching the bottom will help me get the handles more uniform. While I don't think any of these four are terrible - I definitely think the one on the light background, and the dark blue/gray one look like they 'fit' the mug better than the other two.
  10. Mehmet, before you make your decision, read the e-book: 21st Century Kilns. You can download a copy from the Paragon website https://www.paragonweb.com/manualinfo.cfm?cid=212 The book covers specific topics not covered in Olsen’s book. LT
  11. Pete Pinnell discusses cups and how folks handle cups differently at around 22:20. It's a bit more than I need to know about cups but definitely worth the time.
  12. You can also add add layers of plastic cloth/fiberglass cloth to reenforce . If you go to the main page and do a search you will see many posts on making wedging tables
  13. My handles tend to be more of a droopy "D" form. The image is of some older pieces before I started with the extruded handles, and with texturing before shaping, but it is about the handle. Hopefully will get some of the new pieces that I am doing for an order from Savannah before too long. Chalices and patens big now as the order goes out next week. best, Pres
  14. Potter Putter Doesn't hurt to have a killer rutile blue done to perfection, now does it?
  15. I don't make mugs except for family gifts. I have 3 mugs I thought were perfect from a pro potter in Iowa. All 3 have a chip on the rim. I think mugs are about the hardest thing to make because of the ergonomics involved. The handle being only one factor, but the most tactile. Except for the rim, the width of the mug, the overall weight. Let's leave out aesthetics. I've never made the perfect mug. Some of my recipients say differently, but they have not studied the matter.
  16. I prefer mugs with a one-finger handle, like these... I have a few of Paul's mugs and they are so comfortable to hold. Even with a larger handle, I still tend to hold them with my index finger, with the handle resting on my middle finger. Holding a mug with 2, 3, or 4 fingers in the handle is uncomfortable for me. His mugs sell out in seconds, literally, so he must be onto something! .
  17. Tips on building a wedging table. Make it as strong as you possible can. My preferred construction method is to cut the lateral supports 2x4 into the legs 4x4 Screw and glue with Gorilla Glue. My woodworking skills are not what I would have them be, so the Gorilla Glue covers a multitude of sins. The top lateral 2x4s only cut half way into the legs, so they stick up 1 1/2 inches. That will be the thickness of plaster, minus the plywood. Not so thick, you need the wire. If you need more info, I could try to do a better job describing it. My current table is 15+ years with no problems, no wiggle.
  18. Expanded metal is the stuff they build plaster walls with. You could use hardware cloth, which is a smaller hole version of chicken wire. I usually wind up working on my wedging table, so I'm building a new bigger one for my new patio working area. In this case, bigger is better. Whatever space you have.
  19. Mehmet, if I had $1000 and wanted a kiln, I would do something like Boris is suggesting. You can always change later, but this will definitely get you going - and maybe for less than $1000 if you find good deals on used equipment.
  20. Like a lot of potters I have large hands, my right hand has gotten huge over the last 40 years since I started working with clay. If the handle feels good to me when the mug is wet I can count on it shrinking enough that a average person will like it. People with very small hands might have a problem with them. Denice
  21. I probably bought my Bailey slab roller 20 years ago. I just bought the unit and my husband built the bi-level table for it. Bailey included the plans. It has not needed any any maintenance since we installed it. No maintenance is a big deal for me, my husband has enough things to fix around the house. My big Skutt didn't fire right last week so he needs to check out the wiring, another thing for him to fix. Denice
  22. The Bailey has chain drive on one side only-large 1/2 to 5/8th inch wide chain.I did not remove chain guard so I could see was only a peek I would favor steel rollers over soft aluminum which is super soft. I know a potter who built an electric one with cables-its always going thru cables.
  23. I have a simple slab roller my husband and I cobbled together years ago. We had scrap steel and most of the other bits lying around, it's rough and crude but it works well so we’ve never upgraded. Heavy table, shelf underneath, arborite top. Because we used scrap and all sorts of odd bits the total cost was probably under $60- We used parts of a rowing machine, weight lifting set.. For the gears, we used #40 chain sprockets and an idler sprocket to tension (on a pivot arm with a simple coil spring), bought new from a discount auto supply place, not much cost. We did consider bike gears but this was way easier. Height is adjustable on the upper roller, I honestly don’t change the height very often at all. I have a couple thicknesses of boards that I use to run the clay through with, if I want a thinner slab I use a thicker board. A piece of redi-rod mounted to the upper bearing is what adjusts the upper roller height. This allows us to adjust the rollers to parallel. Old steering wheel, more than enough torque to feed the clay through. Re your plan on using aluminium irrigation pipe, that’s great if you can do it. If you can knurl then I’m assuming you have a metal lathe? As you can see on ours, the cylinders aren’t knurled but I’ve never had an issue with it, probably because of the diameter of the pipes.
  24. After more research I decided to order the USG #1 Potters Plaster instead. I don’t know what expanded metal is but I will google it. I am also going to search on this forum for tips on building a (small) wedging table.
  25. I don't do porcelain, so if it's different than stone ware in that respect, I wouldn't know. The spin factor with stoneware is that the pug mill isn't full enough. You need the friction of the clay on the inside of the chamber to hold the mass in place. I've never reached the too soft limit on pugging clay.
  1. Load more activity
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.