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  2. Wow...sorry you have to go through with this. I wish you the best in whatever direction you elect to go.
  3. Hello! I am new here and looking for a bit of help with my wheel please. It's a Shimpo RK3E VL Whisper and has developed a rather annoying loud humming noise when at my favourite slow wheel speed for throwing. All other speeds are quiet, it only makes it at that particular speed. I'm based in the UK and we don't have a Shimpo centre here. My wheel was bought on ebay! Any advice on what might be wrong and if there is anything I can do to fix it myself would be most appreciated. Thanks in advance for taking the time to read and reply. Kindest regards, Elisabeth
  4. Yesterday
  5. Yes on what Min says-get the glaze the way you want it (thick or thin) then add a small amout of made up snot(magma)You will see whay I call it snot soon enough It all depeends on what size glaze buctet you are using as to how much to use-I often have 25 gallon or 10 gallons and also 5 gallons as well as well as 1/2 gallon buckets. The thing is this stuff is powerful-Use just a little . maybe a teaspoon in 5 gallons-the other variable is how much settling YOUR glaze Has? so there are no hard and fast rules .Floating rocks take more than lighter materials. Glad you learned not everything on the web is right like in stock items. If you can add the snot into a small amout of hot water it will mix very easy. Cold bucket of glaze require lots of power mixing.
  6. no doubt, but talking with her might help. Maybe there's a twist to all of this though. i dunno, maybe not, but talking might clear the air.
  7. I do some large pieces, some fully thrown, some with wheel thrown and slab elements combined. Check my albums. Combining forms takes considerably less energy, but design becomes even more important as proportion, texture, and details become more important when combining in that manner. best, Pres
  8. Can add it either way, if you add it to the dry materials then just weigh it out and mix it into the dry ingredients, add some copper carb as a preservative, amounts are in that link I posted above. I prefer to get the specific gravity set first then add a bit of magma goo / jelly to it then whiz it up with an immersion blender. If it settles just add a bit more.
  9. Been making bells for the past few days. I love the sound of giant bowls when I ting them, so might as well make a big bell and hear it whenever the wind blows! I have a small wind chime I got at a second hand store, and it sounds really nice, but it's all tinkle tinkle, and I like the bonging and donging of a deeper bell. Hope it all works out, this is a video of me making my third one. I am gonna make some more tonight, it's fun. Probably gonna make a bunch of mugs first though, i need about 20 more mugs for a full mug bisque load.
  10. I've lately come up with a new form of wedging Maybe. When the clay has dried too much for wedging, or anything else, it can be "forge wedged". Similar to forging steel on Forged in Fire. I use a maple rolling ping and just beat in until there are no cracks and it's solid to roll out. I use it for pulling textures from hydro cal press molds. Some of the textures are too "radical" for anything softer to not tear, and this almost too hard to be useful clay will pull the texture. This is then added as a sprig.
  11. Wedging is a specific type of kneading. The goal with wedging is to mix the clay without adding air bubbles. If you do it correctly, you'll remove air bubbles. I was taught two types of wedging- knead (or ram's head) and spiral. In knead wedging, the corners are pulled down and pushed into the center, creating a ram's head shape. It's good for smaller amounts of clay. Spiral wedging works the clay in a spiral fashion, and is better for large amounts because you're not really kneading the entire ball all at once. Bit by bit the clay is pulled into the spiral. Bread is kneaded in order to stretch the gluten, so that it acts as a web to catch the gasses put out by the yeast, which causes the bread to rise. If you happen to work some air bubbles into it, it's not a big deal. You can do just about anything you want as far as technique is concerned, as long as it's stretching and moving the dough around. Personally, I make my sourdough at 75% hydration, so there's no kneading involved. The dough is much too wet.
  12. Any bread-making potters out there? I've been trying to make bread recently. Apparently, kneading bread differs from wedging. The bread machine flings the dough around sort of randomly but produces a lovely loaf. What do I need to re-learn or un-learn?
  13. Hi Janine! 1000C (1832F) wouldn't be hot enough for me, I've made a commitment to mid fire (stoneware, so far, ~2230F or cone 6); also, likely better off that kiln top temp is considerably higher that where we're using it (mostly), e.g. my kiln is rated for cone 10 From there, 1832F looks like 'bout cone 06, hence max rating in "low fire" range? Not sure if there are clays suitable for jewelry in that range.
  14. Thanks everyone for your help and advice. I will slam my clay today and will use the 5 gal bucket trick, making sure to check for holes. Thanks again!
  15. Great tips I will make sure to follow! Thank you!
  16. Hello everyone, I am writing this post due to hope of meeting with someone who may help me to build a downdraft gas fired kiln. I have the book of Frederick Olsen's Kiln Book and in my opinion it has enough information to design a kiln but it may take a lot of time when I start doing that. I only start making ceramics and will be very appreciated ıf I can find someone to give me a hand.. That's why I just want to ask people on here and maybe somebody would like to share a kiln plan (preferentially 1m3) which had been tested before. Thank you in advance!
  17. A couple of things to follow up here...you are putting it in a plastic 5 gal bucket that has water in it but, after you slam the bag of clay on the concrete, check it for holes before you put it in the bucket. Then put it in the bucket and fill the bucket with water to just above the block of clay, but below the opening in the bag. If the bag has ANY holes it, water WILL get into the bag and saturate the clay more than you want. Leave it in the bucket of water for a day or 2 and you should be ready for wedging...I save empty and water tested bags just for this purpose.
  18. Yes, they actually make a test kit. Sometimes valuable as watching these operate reveals they cannot maintain sufficient current when loaded and any wavering of the flame around the thermocouple trips the valve. Not many of these in use for gas fired appliances anymore so a test kit is probably not very popular at this point. Thermocouples are cheap and this one could be switched for new or better yet switching it with your known good valve may indicate it is bad or that the valve requires more output to remain open than the good valve. Since this kiln has a history I would guess it is possible that sufficient moisture could have entered the system and potentially affected the first downstream valve and explain if and why this valve would need more operating current than the other. I think switching and observing might tell you more in short order without buying the test kit, lots of speculation here. Just an add it’s probably a good idea to have a couple of spare thermocouples on hand in the event one failed just prior to firing or worse during a firing.
  19. Finally got through to Brackers live. The website says no but they do have the Magma in stock. Do you measure it at all, or is this the famous "add a dollop" recipe?
  20. Hi Bill, The fuel gas is Propane. I am not sure the photos capture the flame colors accurately. The thermocouple from the troublesome left side gave an open circuit voltage of 30 mV when heated with the distal end of a MAP torch flame, and about 24 mV when heated by the regular pilot flame (red button taped down to allow gas flow to the pilot, end of thermocouple removed from the valve body for voltage measurement). These measurements after some minimal cleaning of the tip. Not sure how I would measure the closed circuit voltage? I guess I would need some kind of connector to insert between the valve body and the end of the thermocouple that would allow me to insert the probes from my mulitmeter?
  21. I would like to be able to work larger but do not at this time have the skill to do that on the wheel. One reason I prefer that is that I do not do this as a business and am interested in narrative decoration that doesn't cause me eyestrain.
  22. Pres beat me to the fun part of slamming the clay around on concrete. Another thing you might try before you do that is putting a block of clay in a plastic 5 gal bucket for a day or two. The water pressure will push the extra moisture on the outside of the clay inwards and make it more consistent. I have never tried doing this with clay that has frozen but I do it all the time with clay that needs a little more water. I like to keep the bag tied up opening above the water level. For some reason I can't get the wire tie tight enough and to much water will get in if it is totally submerged. Denice
  23. Hmm, thanks seem to have lost one whole post here. The post said that the red button is a mechanical means to raise a solenoid which then allows a swing check to open the main gas through the valve body. 10 mv is typically needed to hold the solenoid open. The actual BASO specs are below. My suggestion is do a closed circuit test and monitor the coil holding voltage. Generally the thermocouples fail. BTW, pilot flame tips look a bit yellow in the picture, might just be the picture. Area that the thermocouple is in also looks flashed over and yellow as well. Is this natural gas and have you measured the thermocouple output?
  24. whilst researching more there are these two Prometheus one below. They are a good hobby size and price. Both reach 1000c. Im hesitant and there is a lot if emphasis on metal clay on their description. But maybe they are good for small ceramics also? any advice on these please :-) Prometheus Mini Kiln Pro1-prg Programmable With Timer Prometheus Mini Kiln Pro-1 With Digital Controller 50 are interested the
  25. FWIW, this is an Olympic DD-12 kiln. There are two groups of 3 burners, one on the left side and one on the right. Each group of burners has it's own pilot "bar." Each pilot bar also has associated with it a thermocouple with it's own dedicated pilot flame (separate from the flames that come from the pilot bar to light the burners). All six burners are fed from a single manifold fed through a chain of four valves: (1) electric valve powered by a set point controller; (2) BASO valve for the left side pilot assembly; (3) BASO valve for the right side pilot assembly; (4) manual valve for controlling flow to the burners. Here is a picture of the pilot/burner arrangement on the right side of the kiln (although it is the left side that is giving me trouble right now). The pilot "bar" is the horizontal pipe with all the little holes emitting small flames. The thermocouple and it's own flame are mounted to the angle just to the right of the front-most burner: And here is a picture of the valve chain (in which you can also see some of the left side pilot assembly). The angled venturis are the ones that feed the pilot bars. Each of the BASO valves has two gas leads, one for the pilot bar burner, and one for the separate flame powering the the thermocouple. Both supplies have needle valves for adjustment. It's the first BASO valve (and it's associated thermocouple) that's giving us trouble right now. We first fired this kiln in late March 2014, and have fired it approximately twice a year since then. It's outside in a metal shed, but with a gravel floor (we put the sheet metal down on the ground to try to prevent dust from getting sucked up into the kiln. The kiln legs are resting on steel plates to spread the load over the gravel.
  26. Elise, as everyone says, the clay is fine. . . just needs wedging. I usually order around a ton at a time, and have it for 2-3 years. That much clay is stored outside under my kayak tarp one a 2X6 riser to keep the boxes off the wet concrete. It freezes and thaws in the winter, and I usually start back into the clay in the Spring when the shop thaws out(uninsulated brick garage). I slam the bag on all sides on the floor or wedging table before opening. Then I cut the block into large bread slices and slam together to start rewedging. Then I divide the block into four even pieces and wedge each one. I have found that I actually like the clay better after it has frozen as it seems to be a bit stiffer, and a little more plastic. best, Pres
  27. BASO valve pilots generally are set within 1/4” of the burner to pass the turn down test and reliably light the burner. Line of site infrared from kilns is tough on this setup. I agree, often ends up unreliable and we are forever measuring 20 or so open circuit millivolts and wondering if the valve will hold reliably.
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