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  3. two layers of 1/2” Hardibacker board will give you some peace. No mixing plaster, woohoo! Great to wedge on, dimensionally satble, easy to get. I still use it for wedging and working surfaces, as well as ware boards. Pulls water out aggressively. It will saturate eventually, the same issue happens to terra cotta planter plates which I also use for small batches. Of course it happens with plaster too,
  4. Most buyers of used studio equipment are hobby potters, and people looking for a used slab roller are looking for a deal. Unfortunately Brents are not one of the more desirable models due to the way you have to add or remove boards to adjust the thickness of the slab. It's also a very long, which can be difficult to fit in a lot of home studios, and the cable system is not fun to replace when they wear out. There are good new slab rollers with infinite dial adjustments and a smaller footprint like Shimpo or Northstar that sell for $1000-1500, so I think that realistically you need to come in under that.
  5. It appears to be in very good condition, but I agree that price is too high for a manual kiln.
  6. That is a Brent pottery wheel. There should be a model number somewhere on the side or on the control box. You could place an ad here in the marketplace section, or on Facebook Marketplace, or Craigslist. If it's in good working condition you could get several hundred dollars for it depending on the model.
  7. Looking to do the crackle effect on a piece, and finding few color options when it comes to ready made crackle glazes. Could a similar effect be achieved by using a color underglaze with CLEAR crackle glaze on top? I realize most to the best crackle effects are achieved in Roku firing, but would love to get a matte surface with crackle.... and electric kiln.
  8. Yesterday
  9. I am a buyer of abandoned storage units. I recently came across this pottery wheel. I have been looking for some place to sell it. I am in central Florida and there appears to only one place here that even does pottery classes. Nobody is able to send me in the right direction. Can anyone tell me what type it is. It also has a clear container with tools for making pottery.
  10. Tagging @Callie Beller Diesel on this in case I'm misremembering but I believe she fires 390 to cone 7 for absorption reasons.
  11. I have attempted to contact Laguna twice before about a different clay (Laguna 65) and received a reply that they were forwarding my question to someone else -- never heard back. So I probably won't contact them again. I recently purchased a box of M390 and threw some test bowls. I am including them in my next series of tests to see what the results are -- figured if Tony had success on M390 with the glaze G 3806 that I could use that as a comparison for the results on the Laguna 613 and go from there. He uses the C6DHSC firing schedule so if I don't have good results on the M390 it will indicate that something else is going on that I haven't thought about. As part of covering all the bases I'm bisquing a few bowls at ^02 for comparison. Going to give the Laguna clay about another 2 weeks to reveal its mysteries then abandon ship (I only have 6 bags left). -- 6 more glaze firings to go (the golf course is calling!) The good thing is that I am really good at throwing test bowls now.
  12. HI, I just did the exact search and came across this post from a few years ago.. How has this process been for the last few years, are you still doing this, or would you recommend a different approach? thanks, Ken
  13. Do you apply the paperclay before or after you've assembled the nest? I seem to remember people coating wire mesh with paperclay by repeatedly dipping & drying. http://antjhfoo.blogspot.com/2010/10/paper-clay-and-wire-mesh.html ... and organics such as cloth https://ceramicartsnetwork.org/pottery-making-illustrated/pottery-making-illustrated-article/Impressions-Imprints-and-Dipping# Googling making nests (again with the images option) shows the appearance of nests made from various substances -- including twigs, straw and coir. I wonder if something less substantial than twigs would burn-out better after coating with paperclay. PS Birds get revenge by using anti-bird spikes in nests https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/science-environment-66163943 Biologist Auke-Florian Hiemstra says the birds seem to be using the spikes as humans intended them - to keep pests away
  14. It seems like you are going through an inordinate amount of glaze testing to solve what really appears to be a clay problem. Have you tried contacting Laguna with the batch number and asking them if they have any thoughts on this? Is using a different red clay an option? @Callie Beller Diesel uses Plainsman M390 very successfully, is this an option for you? Could you use the clay you bought for another purpose?
  15. Hi Kylie and welcome to the forum. Thread linked below from 2022, same kiln but brand new and with furniture, bought for 550. For a manual kiln 950 seems a bit steep. https://community.ceramicartsdaily.org/topic/28072-cress-electric-kiln-fx23-p/
  16. My mom just retired as a potter in Boulder Colorado and has a very nice Brent slab roller for sale to clear out her studio. I have no idea how much such an item would be worth. The closest new model is $3K. Any ideas how much these things go for used? It's bed is 26” wide X 76” long and 35” high. It's a floor mount unit with the large turn wheel. Closest comp is the Brent 20.
  17. Looks like the motor would be in the way. Agreed, the pulley appears to be fixed to the shaft by that bolt; perhaps it is stuck? Perhaps start on that with penetrating oil that dissolves rust/corrosion.
  18. Hello! I am a beginner potter and am looking at this Cress kiln model Fx23P to purchase for $950. Wanted to get any insight into its quality and if the price is worth it. Seller says it is in good condition and slightly used. Thank you!
  19. Thanks so much, yes that's the one. I'm not with the wheel right now but will send pics tomorrow. The problem is I can't access the bearings to get them out. As the large pulley (under the wheel head) is in the way. I assume this should pull off once the bolt is removed (which it is) . The instructions in the manual say remove the 'main spindle assembly' then replace the bearings. Perhaps this means I need to remove more than just the pulley. No wheel maintenance people our way but I will hunt out a second pair or mechanical eyes on this one!!
  20. These images look great! And prove that it can be done. I've just put about 15 individual sticks in the kiln. Will post images when they come out.
  21. Try a google for paperclay nest, then click on the images option. It may at least give an idea of the state-of-the-art. Hits include https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fdeniserouleau.com%2Fworkshops%2Fadventuresinpaperclay&psig=AOvVaw24dMc2zyf9RW6-ztQqTML1&ust=1711619956846000&source=images&cd=vfe&opi=89978449&ved=2ahUKEwj2n7Wtl5SFAxUqVKQEHdaCBYoQr4kDegQIARBi https://judithrosenthal.com/section/125628-Sticks and Stones.html https://judithrosenthal.com/section/125628-Sticks and Stones.html
  22. Last week
  23. Hi Alice, Welcome to the Forum! Please post an image of the wheel's nameplate (if any, particularly the model number), and images depicting the parts in question? Is it this one? cowley_wheel_manual.pdf (bathpotters.co.uk) Glancing over that ^ manual... ...the bearings specified for the wheel shaft and pulley assembly, 6203 and 6201 (respectively) are fairly common. My bikes definitely use the same bearings, also with the double seal, "2RS" Typically the are press fit, which takes some careful doing. Removing the old ones, important that they come out straight, for if they take a slant, they bind up. Installing the new ones, also important that they go in straight, and, force applied to the outer race edge only. There are tools for pressing in/out bearings. Getting help from someone familiar and with the tools may a good choice? Removing the wheel head, "To remove the wheelhead lift upwards..." Likely it's stuck? Perhaps start with some Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster or somewhat similar...
  24. I am trying to make porcelain sticks/branches by painting twigs with paperclay slip (Scarva's Flax paperclay watered down). I know I need to have at least three layers but often some of the first coat rubs off as I'm applying the second. I've tried applying first coat by dipping then further layers with a brush, letting it dry completely between coats. I've considered spraying but I'd have to source my own sprayer with a wide nozzle. I'd look into it if there was a chance it would work. Or perhaps I should buy Scarva's ready made paperclay slip? Any advice appreciated!
  25. Hi all. I am trying to replace the bearings on a Cowley double drive wheel. Problem is after removing the motor etc I cannot remove the larger wheel bit inside to access the bearings. Anyone got any ideas that won't damage it! Also I've never been able to remove the wheel head either. It's a very old machine. Many thanks
  26. Update # 2 for anyone following this thread: Results on Wollastonite Clear adapted glaze. Application: Varying the SG from 1.40 - 1.46 did not eliminate or make the problem better. I like the look of the lower SG and it has the added advantage of making it easier for the gases to escape. The addition of epsom salts to increase the thixotropy also didn't result in an improvement. Defect: more pinholes but smaller. (see photo 2X). I put India ink on the ware and viewed it through a jewellers loupe, because at first glance it didn't look too bad (no glasses; bad lighting) Causes of defect: (my theory) gases from body have not been fully expelled due to early melting of glaze which seals the surface (starts at 1800F); clay vitrifies >2150 before all the feldspars are expelled (2044-2192). oversupply of Calcium which has high surface tension (fluxes at 2012) and results in a glaze that is not fluid enough to fill the pinholes. Next steps: 1. try a glaze that has later melters and fluxes which lower surface tension. I will be trying the Studio White adapted recipe that Min sent me, as well as a similar recipe G3806 C and 3806 E from Digitalfire. They have lower B2O3 (0.10 to 0.15) and use Zinc oxide. (Zn limit 0. - 0.2 and the recipes call for 0.12 - 0.14 so shouldn't cause pinholes). All comments/suggestions/recipes welcome. Next update in a couple of weeks when I've finished testing the Studio white glaze.
  27. Reflecting on Alex's questions, again, how does one assess dust generation? Given that one is mopping the floor and wiping down work surfaces daily, and wiping storage and secondary work surfaces regularly, and opening the area to air movement only after cleaning - to minimize dust blowing around - how to gauge, how to quantify the dust situation? How much dust accumulates on horizontal surfaces in the area? How quickly? How does the dust compare to other areas? Typically, one's dressing area, and where shoes and socks go on and off gather dust quickly. Depending on cooking preferences/methods, kitchens can get dusty quickly as well. Monitoring and comparison may help with sharing workspace, particularly if the evidence indicates that clay dust is well controlled, as in look, the Studio is less dusty that the closet! When I'm keeping up, most of the Studio's dust comes from having the rollup door open and what the cars bring in. When I'm lax, the wedging station and the floor are main culprits.
  28. I like using a small shallow bowl and have a 5 gal bucket near by to wipe scraped clay into. I was also taught to throw dry and like to use a thin slurry starting with warm water. Denice
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