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  1. Today
  2. No, it didn’t warp when I stuck it together it was off a little depending on what angle you look, I figured I’d just go with it sometimes you have to know when to quit. The glaze is cream with speckles dusted with red/gold.
  3. Yesterday
  4. Yes maybe you right Patrick.My Brother who is ceramist either,also tells me that we should better buy an old kiln and restore it instead of buying or building a new one. But I really want to design a new one what I like and use for long years.I dont know yet what future will bring,it is still on researching stage..
  5. Hi Boris, It is really great work you had done.I ll definetely consider your work after I got my ultimate decision.I am still at the researching stage. Thank you for your precious sharing!
  6. Hi Mark, İt goes to 1250 °C. Yes,you competely right about shelve size is very important point before building.I want to build a kiln which allows me to fire stoneware and porcelain both if this would be possible but my priority is 1100 °C
  7. This one looks more balanced. As everyone else has said ......... and If you ask 10 potters for an opinion, you'll get 12 different answer.
  8. Ok its been asked here more times than I can recall Since it the season coming on here is some info on this. Weather its a cooking BBQ or just a pot for the stove top. Its requires special clay and glaze to handle the thermo expansion I have a friend who uses one from Mexico on the stove top-the trick is slow LOW heat ROBBIE LOBELL Is the queen of this work You can view her clay body and some glazes here https://studiopotter.org/flameware-journey
  9. With #1 Pottery Plaster, you'll need 16.316 grams of plaster per cubic inch. Plaster to water ratio is 10:7 by weight.
  10. Last week
  11. OK… Take a couple of 1x4s and nail them to the sides and the front of your table top, calculate the volume, mix a little more plaster than your calculation and pour it into the frame. then take a stiff straight edge, and skim the top level and let it set up. Voila...you have a wedging table.
  12. Also where its attached to mug body matters a lot. To low attachment and you are fighting a heavy mug of fluids .Teacups are a good example of this. The one finger is holding all the teacup weight. I feel you want not to be leveraging the weight so I attach nearer the rim. My handlke always are below rim but my thumbspots often get above rim on handles.
  13. Exactly about the air space. A handle further away from the body doesn't give more room for fingers or make it anymore comfortable to hold, it just moves the hand further from the center of gravity. It puts a lot more strain on the connection points of the handle, is harder to hold without tipping when full of liquid, and rarely looks aesthetic. Even the really freaky handles like small flat squares protruding from the side of a cylinder look good as long as they're close to that 1/3rd measurement. I've seen some pretty crazy handles that still look great aesthetically!
  14. This is my current wedging table. It’s very sturdy since the legs are metal. I am just planning on adding plaster to the top wood section.
  15. I constantly remember how my first professor would go on and on about how a handle should be small enough not to look like an ear on the side of the pot, but large enough to get 2-3 fingers into it. I really was not a big fan of his, but some things keep coming back. I have tried to make mine fit my hand and have a comfortable angle from lifting straight across, or from slightly above. best, Pres
  16. When you have your finger(s) in the handle, whether it's one or 4 all you need is a small amount of air space between the body of the mug and your fingers. Big loopy handles are awkward, especially if you have small hands, a round cross section of handle can lead to the mug not feeling secure when you hold it, the mug likes to roll. Strap shaped handles are nice if the edges are rounded over, if you put the tip of your index finger against the tip of your thumb and make an even edged almond shape that shape seems to work well also. I like having the edges of the handles mirror the thinness of the very top of the rim and then having the middle section a bit thicker. Just make a few hundred mugs and it'll get to be second nature, some will just feel more comfortable.
  17. Thank you all for the input... Sounds like 1/3 of the overall width, or 1/2 the diameter of the mug cylinder, is the base-line - with variations from there for style/form. I think the main thing I need to work on is consistency. I've started measuring as I throw, so the mugs are pretty consistent - maybe a short piece of tubing between the mug and handle as I'm attaching the bottom will help me get the handles more uniform. While I don't think any of these four are terrible - I definitely think the one on the light background, and the dark blue/gray one look like they 'fit' the mug better than the other two.
  18. Mehmet, before you make your decision, read the e-book: 21st Century Kilns. You can download a copy from the Paragon website https://www.paragonweb.com/manualinfo.cfm?cid=212 The book covers specific topics not covered in Olsen’s book. LT
  19. Pete Pinnell discusses cups and how folks handle cups differently at around 22:20. It's a bit more than I need to know about cups but definitely worth the time.
  20. You can also add add layers of plastic cloth/fiberglass cloth to reinforce in the middle of the pour. If you go to the main page and do a search you will see many posts on making wedging tables
  21. My handles tend to be more of a droopy "D" form. The image is of some older pieces before I started with the extruded handles, and with texturing before shaping, but it is about the handle. Hopefully will get some of the new pieces that I am doing for an order from Savannah before too long. Chalices and patens big now as the order goes out next week. best, Pres
  22. Potter Putter Doesn't hurt to have a killer rutile blue done to perfection, now does it?
  23. I don't make mugs except for family gifts. I have 3 mugs I thought were perfect from a pro potter in Iowa. All 3 have a chip on the rim. I think mugs are about the hardest thing to make because of the ergonomics involved. The handle being only one factor, but the most tactile. Except for the rim, the width of the mug, the overall weight. Let's leave out aesthetics. I've never made the perfect mug. Some of my recipients say differently, but they have not studied the matter.
  24. I prefer mugs with a one-finger handle, like these... I have a few of Paul's mugs and they are so comfortable to hold. Even with a larger handle, I still tend to hold them with my index finger, with the handle resting on my middle finger. Holding a mug with 2, 3, or 4 fingers in the handle is uncomfortable for me. His mugs sell out in seconds, literally, so he must be onto something! .
  25. Tips on building a wedging table. Make it as strong as you possible can. My preferred construction method is to cut the lateral supports 2x4 into the legs 4x4 Screw and glue with Gorilla Glue. My woodworking skills are not what I would have them be, so the Gorilla Glue covers a multitude of sins. The top lateral 2x4s only cut half way into the legs, so they stick up 1 1/2 inches. That will be the thickness of plaster, minus the plywood. Not so thick, you need the wire. If you need more info, I could try to do a better job describing it. My current table is 15+ years with no problems, no wiggle.
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