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  3. Sputty

    ^04 for dinnerware?

    On the other hand, Arbuckle and Pinnell make some very good points here: earthenware (longer rant); pete pinnell on clay body strength I particularly like Arbuckle's strong defence of earthenware. If only I could rant so cogently. TL;DR - properly formulated, properly glazed, properly fired earthenware is (if anything) stronger than stoneware.
  4. Mark C.

    ^04 for dinnerware?

    Earthenware vs Stoneware-I have found all my earthen ware did not last very long-meaning it broke easy over time. Just about all my cone 06 stuff is long gone now. Not true with high fired clays. I am using my cone 10 stoneware dinner set every day since 1976. A few chips on the feet but still ticking along.My earthen ware that is alive for the 70s is hanging on the wall not in use.
  5. Sputty

    ^04 for dinnerware?

    True. I only mentioned it because it seemed rather likely that one of the reasons OP had previously come across for believing earthenware might be unsafe would be the use of lead in low-fire glazes. It never hurts to cover that particular point. It's all knowledge, after all, and all helps to paint the broad landscape of possibility. What is needed is a good handbook for earthenware/low-fire. There are so many for high-fire, and many for mid-fire. But I don't know of a single (modern) one that exists for low-fire, except for niche areas like raku, or pit-fire, or somesuch. I'm thinking of something like the 'Ceramics Handbook' series, which generally cover enough ground to get an interested beginner going. I blame Leach for being utterly dismissive of earthenware, and setting the direction of western ceramics for generations. ( <---- It's possible to spot an over-generalisation here, if you squint.)
  6. For me starting out was I like working in clay (1970s) which morphed into selling pots which morphed into a living (1980s). The business side came along with all that. It was not a plan at all it just happened as I liked working with clay. I made the business side work well along that path. Not at the start but along the way.. Keeping costs down has been in blood from day one not because of a plan but because I had no money to start with.Keeping the money became the plan as I went. If I started today and bought it all at the start it would never pencil out. Its slow process.
  7. Kiln cracked, can't wait to open it. Don't worry I won't post more pics right away. 

  8. Babs

    Temperature Algorithm?

    2018? Everyone should be metric Who likes dealing with larger than necessary numbers and difficult maths. Good point though Curt. It'll be in Kelvins next
  9. Babs

    Engobe Questions

    With 10% cobalt and rutileit's gonna do something
  10. 1. Set timer 2. Press button in kiln sitter which is already set up. 3 put thumb wheel on 8 to 10 4 put firemate on 10 I guess but to the faster end..you shouldn't be hearing any clicks on and off because your kiln will be full on! Check it out in10 to 20 mins. When finished the check out release the kiln sitter . This is not the set up for what you'd do for a normal bisque or glaze!!!! Get a log book on the go. Cheers
  11. I don't make a living by pottery or by any business, but I think it makes sense to keep track of what you are spending in your business until you know instinctively that your production process is sensible given the prices you are charging. If you don't pay attention to what you are spending at the beginning of things, you could find yourself not only leaking cash but leaking cash completely unnecessarily. Of course you make a living by making and selling pots rather than by bookkeeping, but two different people could sell the same number and quality of pots and one could be doing well with it and the other going broke if the costs of the inputs to their processes are completely different. Managing your costs, which first requires knowing what they are, is a completely reasonable part of running any kind of business.
  12. beige firemate setting that goes from 1 to 10 - I didn't have it at anything before. not even sure what that is for? what should I put that at? should I trip it now? I assume you mean - take the cone off - and then put it back etc.
  13. And the beige firemate setting? Remember to trip the sitter when shutting down at end of test. Fingers x'd
  14. Ros there a program to slowly dry kiln wash:-/ Hope They're dry!!!!
  15. Not sure if this is the right place for this, but I have a suggestion for how we might save time and headaches when dealing with temperatures in threads. Not sure if it can be done, but the folks back in the lab will probably know or could cook something up. Since I work in Celsius, whenever I come across a forum post quoting temperatures in Fahrenheit, I have to stop and make a conversion, either by consulting some lookup table, or using a conversion app of some kind, or (GF!) using a calculator (too hard at that point). After the 432nd F to C conversion this month, it occurred to me that it would probably be possible for the software guru’s to add a small bit of code to these forums so that when I am drafting a post and include a temp in Celsius, as long as it was in a very specific format (eg “1280 C”), the forum software would automatically recognise that and automatically calculate and insert the equivalent temp in Fahrenheit behind my original in Celsius, using a little algorithm or something similar. Without me or any reader having to do anything or make any calculations ourselves. And of course vice versa for Fahrenheit to Celsius. Hope it is clear what I am getting at? Is that possible does anyone know? Has it been implemented on any other websites or forums you are aware of? Or is it already a feature on this website that I just don’t know about? Thoughts or comment appreciated.
  16. I was a starving potter for over a decade-so just plan on that and then the tide will turn. traveling to outside shows open the economic door for me-as well as keep my local sales going.
  17. Steve W

    In the Woods

    Do you sell your ceramics?
  18. Lots of good wisdom here & thoughtful responses. And I appreciate the depth of that method, LT! I must say, I'm experiencing some relief knowing that there isn't yet another thing that I ought to be juggling in the madness of making pottery. I still feel as though I have a long way to go before I'm making a living through pottery and I've practically been a starving artist for the past decade. So at the moment, information empowers the necessities of frugality. Plus, I think I have some personal leanings & inclinations toward analytics. I'm beginning to wrap my brain around the workaholic thing, Mark. It certainly seems that the best way to earn a living with pottery is to make pots, sell pots, and only sweat enough details to make tax season bearable.
  19. Would like some input from people with experience with Thermal Lite and Cordierite shelves. (Not Advancers-I have all the info I need on those.) I am looking for the lightest that will serve well in electric firing -mostly 5-6, commercial bodies & glazes. I did a search here and also looked at specs on supplier sites, but current feedback from the community would be helpful. Lightest weight and less need for cleaning & kiln wash are the priorities. Thanks.
  20. Polydeuces

    Engobe Questions

    Here's an additional question concerning the topic of "under the glaze." It just occurred to me, and is kind of side-reel from engobe but in the same ballpark perhaps. If I were to apply a fairly thick mixture, let's say something like 25 ball clay 55 whiting 10 cobalt carbonate 10 rutile to a piece that was leather hard—let's say it was painted somewhere on the surface, and then it dried & went through bisque, and was glazed & fired again—would the flux in the Whiting still be present & active in the glaze fire, and would it react to the glaze applied on top? Or would this mixture vitrify at bisque temp? I guess my reason for asking is, it would seem a rather convenient way to influence the behavior of an otherwise simple glaze. That said, I've only reached the tip of the iceberg regarding my understanding of ceramic chemistry & the interaction of kiln-firing.
  21. Well, I can forget being in a hurry. I don't know why the article was titled "Program to Quickly Dry Kiln Wash". "Quick it is NOT!!!! I know I programmed correctly, (selected the 4 hour hold time) and my L&L is an excellent performer-dead on for all the time I've had it. I started at 9PM yesterday so I am not understanding why this run is STILL cooling down. It was CPLT after 9.3 hours ( 800 degrees). It's going on 11 tonight and it just got to 200. Yikes! Neither math nor science is my thing....so am I missing something obvious here?
  22. Polydeuces

    Engobe Questions

    Hey y'all, thanks for the responses! Despite arguments & debates, I find it all very educational and appreciate multiple viewpoints—so thanks for chiming in! It's plain to see that there's a passionate bunch here I'm going for a layer that totally masks the clay body underneath. I like the look of the clay body (working with Highwater's Brownstone—fired in reduction it's beautiful and toasty) but would like to add some variation. Perhaps irrelevant, but some of the "Why" behind it: I've experienced some frustration within the variables of colorful & interesting glazes, so I'm intending to move forward by experimenting with something a little more "controlled," and going with simpler, easier, more reliable glazes suitable for functional ware. I'm really just interested in exploring the uses of them. I had made a couple personal attempts by simply following recipes, and really had no idea what I was doing insofar as the baselines of "how thick" and "when I do I apply?"—hence my post. I'd like to try painting motifs & banding, sgraffito, or simply providing a more suitable canvas for certain glazes that I'd still like to use from time to time. I like deeper colors & muted earth tones, but I think I'd like to experiment with some whites or oxide-laden slips, too. I guess if I'm going with a dark body, I would probably want to layer a white/porcelain engobe on top, and then used a white/porcelain engobe with whatever stains on top of that? If I used a black body stain on an otherwise dark engobe, and threw a clear or translucent glaze on top—would it show? My understanding was that the addition of flux to the engobe brightened the coloration. Thanks for all the tips!
  23. OK - so I am going to try this first thing int he morning. turn on full wheel - 10 - set for an hour by watch my watch for 20 mintues cheep peep holes to see if glowing open lid when I do to check them all the manual says it can fire to cone 10. since what I do is always cone 5 or 6 I hope we are still good. I have no idea if she has ever redone the elements or not.
  24. Yeh thumbwheel full What's the firemate set at full also?
  25. Yeh time it manually but need timer on kiln dialled to some thing so it will work. Say an hour.. but set watch to 20 mins Glowing element seen through bung holes will indicate hot happening so then crack lid carefully and look inside. If all glowing bingo the elements are intact. Another thing to check if operated by a China painter is the temp this kiln can handle being fired to. The maximum temp is that And is hard to achieve as elements fade, what I am saying is you should have a kiln which you would operate a ways below the max the kiln will handle....
  26. ok - just want to make sure I understand. Yes - it has hour increments. I had put it between the two but never seemed to move. it should right? So try for the 30 minutes again Wheel on high cone bar on sitter so flap can stay up press button do I wait for timer to go all of the way down? or if it does not move - just time on my watch for 30 minutes? you said look through holes to see if I can see it glow how do I know if they all glow? I am guessing you were trying to point out that I did not have it on for long enough for the elements to actually'glow' thus they didn't. Am I correct there? then after 20 minutes - open the lid with out the moving dial or flap. thank you - sorry for all of the questions. I know this is a huge part of it all and I really want to learn!
  27. Yeh put timer on for longer and release flap by removing cone on inside after cooled down. Your kiln will automatically turn off when you open lid to peek You can look through bung holes for a glow before popping lid. Don't freak. So you put timer on 15mins? Looks like hour segments on your timer... so put anything in timer and manually time say 20 mins and peek Gain
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