Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Today
  2. There are a couple of cracks, one in one of the creases next to the neck, and one in the inner elbow, but nothing major and nothing I'm too upset about
  3. Ozon from what you have posted thus far: buying a mixer/pugger may be your best option. I suggest this based on the assumption, that coloring porcelain will be an ongoing mode of operations for your studio. Note I said: mixer/pugger, because there are differences between straight puggers and mixer/puggers. Most all mixing puggers are single auger, and require the machine to be full, including the nozzle; because part of the mixing action requires the back pressure of a completely full chamber. Dual auger mixers work much better, but in the States: dual auger mixers only come in very large capacities. I will add some step by step instructions in the AM because the laptop I am on does not seem to be displaying correctly. I will add them as an edit..sorry. Nerd
  4. Home Made Kiln Controller

    One useful feature for the software would be to have one screen option that simply displayed the temperature(s) as big (giant) numbers and nothing else on the screen. One big number for each thermocouple channel, that the number could be seen and read easily in all kinds of ambient light from 20 or 30 feet away. This would make it easy to know the temperature from anywhere in the general vicinity of the kiln (say, down on hands and knees squinting into a porthole) without having to get up and walk over to a pc or laptop and search on a screen. I am looking for something like this right now to display thermocouple temps for a wood fired kiln and have had no luck so far finding it. If anyone has any ideas?....
  5. Working like a fiend to end up with bisqued pieces via my kiln, for two pending fires off-site. One is a raku demo and the other a wood fire in an anagama kiln.  I procrastinated committing and thus painted myself into a corner, since I'll have to make & dry a lot of stuff right quick to fill my kiln and make the deadlines. 

  6. Well this is the easiest one to answer, ever!! Reclaiming and wedging. Wedging and reclaiming. Oh, and maybe someone to code, measure, describe and enter inventory on the spreadsheet. And picking clay out of the MKM Hops roller-those tiny tiny little incised parts of the buds determinedly do not want to give up any clay--wet or dried-that has settled in and refuses to leave. And...
  7. So Babs very recently asked: If you wanted to and had the means, which part of the process would you assign to an apprentice/assistant? For me it would be preliminary glazing and base clean up. Most of what I do, lately, starts with a base glaze with spray on over top from different angles to bring out the textures. Years ago when my wife and I were doing the Penn State festival, she would help by base glazing with a friend and do clean up before I sprayed on glazes and did brush work over that. As we don't have the big rushes anymore, I do everything. best, Pres
  8. Yesterday
  9. what is your favorite wax resist?

    Ceramic Supply. Rinses totally clean out of brushes with just water. Never gums them up. Dries quickly and completely, not sticky. You can add food coloring to wax to make it easier to see. It takes a surprising amount to do the job.
  10. colouring large batches of porcelain

    I use a commercial size Hobart dough mixer, but these might be more expensive than a pug mill. One way to make your job easier is to saturate your clay with stain. By that I mean ... if you want 5% mix your batch at 10 or 15% ... it is very easy to knead in the right amount of white clay to bring the % down ... less clay to store and less times you have to make it.
  11. colouring large batches of porcelain

    One thing to check out is if you can get your clay dry, not already mixed. That eliminates the need to dry it out to get a powdered form. Many clay manufacturers sell their clay dry.
  12. what is your favorite wax resist?

    Forbes Resist. Freaking amazing.
  13. Absorption

    One test you can do to see if your clay has vitrified, is to fill it with water and let it sit of a surface all night. In the morning , if there is a ring of moisture at the base, the clay is not vitrified. When working with outdoor freeze proof clay, there are a few differences of opinion on what rate is preferred. Nothing over 3%. Some say 1.5% Marcia
  14. Looks good. Did you have any problems? Marcia
  15. For anyone interested, this is the sculpture now.
  16. During the Sunshine Cobb demo/workshop this past weekend at the Red Lodge Clay Center, the topic of wax resist came up. One person said the Wax resist from Columbus Clay was a "game changer". in Montana, many people have used the Liquid Wax from Archie bray developed in the 1950s for Hamada's visit. I have been using Aftosa wax for several years because I can see it. Its blue. Anyone have a favorite? Marcia
  17. winter came last week with 6 inches of snow. I have a lot to do before the extremely cold weather gets here. 

  18. Absorption

    Agreed with Neil, I would also try for a full cone 6. For large standard cones it’s tip touching the shelf for a full cone 6. With self supporting cones it’s tip level will the top of the wedge shaped base. (If you go tip touching shelf with the self supporting cones it’s only a few degrees more so that is okay too.) Some clays have more wiggle room than others. In my experience the closer to 0% porosity the less you can overfire without running into the occasional bloat or slump. I don’t have enough experience with US clays to know how much you can overfire the Standard Clays. I looked up the Standard 563, it’s listed as 1% @ ^6. But don’t forget that fudge factor of + or - 1%, gotta do your own tests to see if it’s okay for pots holding water. Sounds like an uneven kiln is not a problem, good. I didn’t know what you had so was trying to cover all the bases with my earlier comment. Couple thoughts re what is vitrified and if it will leak. Guess it depends on how you define vitrified and mature. I go with if the fired clay is impermeable to water then it is vitrified. (ie it doesn’t leak at all). Mature is not necessarily vitrified. Example would be practically all earthenware clays. They mature roughly somewhere between 04-2 but the porosity (how much water they soak up) is never going to be near zero, generally in the 10%+ range. Yup, they are mature, nope they are not vitreous. So to answer your question, your ^6 clay likely isn’t vitrified if it isn’t fired to maturity. Your wide range 6 - 10 clay is not fired to maturity at ^6 therefore no way will it be vitrified nor mature.
  19. Kiln Install on Deck

    Guys, maybe take it down a notch. The simple act of walking is responsible for more deaths, injuries, and property damage than dryers and kilns combined (to the tune of orders of magnitude greater). I get that you feel a responsibility to correct information, but it gets a little heavy handed and ego based--especially lately--the point of a lot of threads has been lost because of it.
  20. Kiln Install on Deck

    Clothes dryers are a major cause of house fires, about 3,000 per year in the US. Cleaning out the lint catch is super important to prevent fires.
  21. Kiln Install on Deck

    I explained to my agent, that a properly installed kiln, isn't a whole lot more dangerous than a dryer, electric or gas. In fact, after replacing the element, in a dryer years ago, my dryer scares me more than a kiln! When I went to remove the element, the surrounding area was just coated in dryer lint. The elements had none, probably because any lint that hit the elements vaporizes instantly. But it doesn't seem like it would take much to get a good fire going inside one of those. Also, a force air gas furnace or boiler heating system, have open flames, that could obviously cause issues. Homes are deathtraps, why do we live in them again?...
  22. Absorption

    Ideally we want absorption under 2%, otherwise it can weep and it's not vitrified. Half a cone may or may or may not matter- it all depends on the clay body. If your glaze can handle it, go for a full cone 6 by adding a hold time at the end. Start with 5 minutes and increase by 5 minute increments, or put on a 30 minute hold and watch the cones to see when it's done and shut it off manually one time. But that means being there to monitor the end of the firing. Shouldn't take more than 10 minutes hold
  23. Kiln Install on Deck

    Some insurance companies won't cover them at all. Some don't care. Some charge extra. It just depends on the company. But always check it out first, and do everything by the book so there's no trouble later on.
  24. Absorption

    I picked up some 563 and tried it this afternoon. It was a little soft but easy to throw. I will see how it fires. I will also check with my supplier to see if they have 630, if not I will have them order some and give it a try. Min, I have an L&L kiln with 3 thermocouples and it's pretty much the same on all levels at cone 6 but not at cone 04. Is there any "wiggle room" for a cone 6 clay to be fully vitrified? If the pyrometric cone is at 2:00 is that close enough and if not am I better off bumping the hold time up a little and risk being over fired? Are you saying that if the absorption rate is high enough that a vitrified piece will leak? Thanks to everyone for the suggestions and help.
  25. Kiln Install on Deck

    Yeah Neil, I've often heard that if you have a kiln, make sure you tell your insurance company. Because if there's a fire in your house, and it even looks like an undisclosed kiln caused the problem, you are out of luck... And by luck I mean money and possibly a home. I contacted my agent, and once I explained to them, what exactly I mean by kiln and "firing", they said it wasn't an issue. It added maybe a few more dollars to my premium each month. This is contrary to what a colleague recommended, who said "If you install that kiln in your house, don't tell the insurance company!" He was under the impression that I would be charged and arm and a leg, just to have the kiln.
  1. Load more activity