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  2. Frozen leather hard pieces

    I think it might depend on how much water was in the clay at the time. I've frozen pots that were still soft before, and they just disintegrated when they thawed. Im a firm believer in taking pieces to the end for the learning experience. As everyone else said, just check the pieces for structural integrity at all stages.
  3. Frozen leather hard pieces

    I had some frozen mugs when I had a studio in upstate NY. They had what looked like fish scales on the surface. Once they warmed up, they were fine and fired without any signs of the frosting. Marcia.
  4. Today
  5. so sorry your hard work did not pay off. hanging through that hole in the center design looks like a good option. can you somehow try one or two before the camp?
  6. I have this same wheel, it is a Wenger WHD. The footpedal arrangement is slightly different on mine, I'll post a photo when I can.
  7. Or make your own clay...
  8. Philip Glass recordings - Hope Street Tunnel Blues - 2007 I think you can guarantee that it won't be Big Bill Broonzy. A friend of mine was at the same performance. He was suitably enthusiastic. One of the (very few) problems with living in darkest rural France is the difficulty in accessing major cultural events. I went to see Philip Glass in the mid-80s at the Albert Hall, shortly after Akhnaten had been released. It was really very good, and formed the sound-track to a lot of my pottery activities for years afterwards.
  9. Making underglazes from powders

    The commercial pottery painting places near me (Essex, England) use large jars of commercial underglaze. I suspect that if you compare the cost of commercial vs home-made, and take all costs into account (materials and time to mix, test; mix, re-test) the commercial will turn out cheaper. Good luck
  10. Last year I made 20 Herb Labels and a stand to fire them in, so that I could glaze both front and back, leaving an unglazed are that would not be seen as it would be below soil level. It sounded like a great idea, but in a ^8? (1260c) reduction gas firing, the labels leaned and most of them stuck together and/or curved. The stoneware clay was rated 1120c to 1280c. (Yeah, yeah, I know about clays that are rated for a wide range, but.......) I'll be back at Potter's Camp again this August, and want to have another go. My clay choices for this year are: same as last year or porcelain rated 1220c to 1280c. I could fire them in salt, soda, gas or wood. The salt and soda firings are expected to go to 1280c. I still want the same design, glazed both sides, and have been pondering since last August how to construct them so they do not slump. My first thought is to hang them upside down, so gravity isn't trying to flatten them. Does anyone have any thoughts on this? There are photos of last year's failures and my thoughts on supporting the upside-down labels in my gallery. Gallery
  11. Making underglazes from powders

    Ball clay and stain sounds like a wash (with some frit) rather than an underglaze recipe. I'm not sure what you mean when you say "stained glaze powder"? Underglazes can be used on greenware or bisque. Speedball ones seem to be the least expensive, don't know if they are an option where you live? Making your own underglazes takes a lot of stain, would have to price out to see if it works out any less expensive. Commercial ones I've used could all be watered down also. I’ve used an underglaze recipe from Mason Stains, if you try it don’t leave out the VeegumT, even though it’s only a tiny amount it’s really necessary to keep the stains in suspension. EPK Kaolin 10 parts Feldspar (any) 25 parts Silica 25 parts Stain. 40 parts Mix well with water, add 1 part VeeGum T that has been FULLY broken down in water, screen through 100 or finer screen, bring to your painting consistency by addition of more water if needed. When using very strong stains such as cobalt blues or chrome greens you will need to reduce the amount of stain if the fired colour is too strong for your requirements. This can be used to decorate on clay or bisque. Dry fully before glazing. Good luck with your new pottery studio! @oldlady, we use "colour" in Canada too
  12. Hi--just curious about the traffic for your website--is it generating sales? Do you have any idea "why" or "how" you are getting so much traffic (i.e  well known reputation, strong base of existing customers & interested others, targeted SEO skills, links to you placed on other sites???)  I enjoyed your videos and text & photos of your gorgeous work, by the way.  Lee U

  13. Making underglazes from powders

    "colour" tells me you might be in england or somewhere close to it. here in the usa we are spoiled because there are so many varieties of underglaze made by various manufacturers. i have seen several books published in england showing potters making colors with "pigments". no translation so i do not know exactly what they are. if you can get a copy of "the complete potter" by steve mattison, he has several helpful suggestions starting at page 176.
  14. Not just da blues, but da down & dirty wet and slippery blues-the best kind. Hmmm...wonder how Glass would sound plucking out da blues for a change?
  15. I think I will stick to stoneware. I just checked the shrinkage values of porcelains vs my G mix/6.. Porcelain shrinks a lot less so my glaze would not fit. At this stage, I am not going to go through the ritual of modifying my glazes.
  16. I went to the opera the other day. Philip Glass. It was (sort of) about Gandhi's life and explored ideas from the Bhagavad Gita. There's a quote that's stuck with me. "Hold pleasure and pain, profit and loss, victory and defeat to be the same: then brace yourself ready for the fight. So will you bring no evil on yourself." https://www.metopera.org/metupload/Satyagraha_libretto.pdf
  17. When you trim your pots, use the side of your needle tool to make 2 or 3 concentric rings just above the foot. They will help to slow down glaze runs. If you're just doing a single glaze, and it doesn't run much, you can get within 1/8" of the bottom and not have to worry. Like others have said, cut a bevel at the foot to give some space between the glaze and the shelf. The bevel also looks better than a sharp corner, and is less likely to scratch a table top.
  18. just finished spraying slip onto a large tray. did a really dumb thing, knew better and this is the result. the slip was colored with cerulean mason stain. does that mean my radio will only play the blues now???
  19. What some may find gross.. I volunteer weekly with great apes and am well acquainted with both ends of the enterprise.
  20. Yesterday
  21. If this is the case then you might just decide to be happy with the glaze colors on stoneware and move on. I don't think it is worth the price to ship clay at all. = (
  22. Frozen leather hard pieces

    It's worth a shot. I'd say if they make it through the whole process without additional cracks then they'll be fine. When they come out of bisque or glaze, give them a tap. You'll hear a dull thud if there are cracks you can't see. If they ring like a bell, they're good.
  23. we recently converted a large shed into my studio. The problem is I only have a space heater that I use when I am working. I had thrown a set of bowls prior to our cold weather. After trimming them I set them on a shelf to dry. The last week has been in the teens and when I went out all my pieces had frozen and had small cracks. I thought they were ruined. I covered them with plastic thinking maybe I could save them. Went out the next day to take a peak and they look great. You can’t even tell there were any small cracks. I am wondering if the integrity has been compromised or if I should go ahead and bisque fire.
  24. Ideal studio setup

    I like to organize by flow process...clay arrival and storage, making area, drying area, glaze area with chemical storage , kiln room with ventilation, For versatility, I like carts, tables, some shelving, equipment like pug mill, mixer on wheels.
  25. Hello, I am new here and also just taken over a small pottery studio with limited experience. I have done pottery as a hobby and now in at the deep end, which is fun but also daunting and expensive! I have looked online for the best and cheapest way to make underglazes for kids to use on greenware for one-off groups. (also considering just keeping it un-glazed and send off bisqued to paint at home?!) I made some stained glaze powder/ ball clay concoctions but were very weak in colour and too thick. Can someone please advise on the cheapest way to make underglazes? I have seen other potters have jars of it in kids classes in the past... Does mixing it with ball clay always dull down the colour and what ratio is best? Using just water is too runny. Advice greatly appreciated. Thanks
  26. Those things are seriously gross!! with the organic ones, you get a pretty interesting variety of bugs. We called the zoo once to offer up specimens for study.
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