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  2. BatApp

    Good on you Ron and thanks for sharing. It might just be a simple calculator but I can see it being very useful.
  3. I once was a local ceramic guild member until it folded a long time ago. I'm a board member on a local fair board that puts on a art show past 44 years. I have a plaque that says Bozo of the year award-if that counts-its on nice wood. I do a salt fire occasionally at my place with fellow potters but's its informal.
  4. Today
  5. BatApp

    The only way I can make Android work is go to a Star Wars movie. I'm all apple 100% since 1990 I could have a few droid friends get the specs for me if needed.
  6. Yesterday
  7. I've received a lot of help and advice on this forum and as my way of saying thank you I put this little app together to share with all of you. It's nothing real fancy, all it does is calculate the correct amount of plaster and water for any given size round bat. Its free and only works on Android. There are no ads, back links or any nefarious code, it's just a simple calculator. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.woodturnersresourse.BatApp&hl=en
  8. ....what Dick said, and yes, the humidity makes a difference too. I work outside using 18-20" hump molds, and I have to keep on them. That is, I have to pay close attention to how fast they are drying. I try to catch them right at leather hard. I normally trim the lip right at the edge of the mold or higher up from the lip so there's no overhang. When they are just right, I'll pull at the edges, alternately one side then the opposite, until the shape releases or 'slides'. Once that's done, I can leave it until it stiffens a bit more or pull it set it upright if it's stiff enough. As a note I don't use any release agent (WD40 or whatever). My molds are commercial molds made of Hydrocal plaster. I wipe them down with a sponge before each use and directly apply the clay.
  9. Old Kiln/New Potter

    Yeah, fire it and see what happens. Lots of messing with the flue for sure. If you still get too hot on the bottom, try stacking the flue as described. I use about 3-4 tiers of brick on their long sides and put the flue on top. It is tricky to do this so that junk doesn't fall thru the hole ontp your ware. That's why I use harder fire brick, the type you can by anywhere for fireplaces.
  10. Ah, now that's an interesting thought. As I understand it, 'Parian' dolls were almost exclusively German (sometimes - perhaps mistakenly - referred to as Dresden dolls), and sometimes simply unglazed, bisqued porcelain was/is erroneously referred to as Parian. But the dates are later than the flourishing of the art in Britain by a couple of decades, and the heads and hands produced weren't necessarily as fine, or the surfaces so ethereal. I stand to be corrected on this, however; dolls aren't something I know much about (apart from the fact that some of the Victorian/Edwardian examples are beyond strange and spooky). I'm not sure where to begin researching German manufacturing processes - anyone out there have a clue?
  11. firing schedule needed

    How thick are your slabs? Less than 1 centimeter?
  12. Mixed up two clay bodies (50/50)for fellow potter who is 83 yr old.Its 500# and I will drop it off to herĀ in next few days .It less than a two hour job with the Peter pugger.I do this every year for her.I hope someone does it for me when I'm 83.

  13. Parian kiln firing question

    My first exposure to Parian was in reference to the material used for doll's heads and hands. Might there be useful information from doll making sources?
  14. Glaze issue

    Well done! Meticulous work and continued experiment.
  15. interesting stuff! well, I would assume (hope) potclays comment means "over the recommended" temps. Anyway, assuming everything is good with the clay etc I will try some pieces at 1240c and also try some at 1200c. I might have to get another thermocouple before I fire so i'm dead on the mark.
  16. There is a "follow" box right up near the top of the page, it's beside the title of the thread. If you want to see what gets posted to a topic just click that and you will get notifications when someone makes a post to it, that way you can come back to it easily. Saves searching for a thread.
  17. Backpack recommendations?

    Ahh, that's a good point. I have a clay trap upstairs under the sink and I don't normally wash clothes that are covered in clay in the machine. For some reason I had a brainfart when it came to backpack.
  18. Perhaps 'self-glazed' is misleading - we're not talking shiny here. It's a porcelain style body, but very heavily fluxed. At its best, the effect is like no other - a sort of surface translucence, an alabaster sheen, cool and silky, almost like a muted marble surface. Originally the material was developed to allow reproductions of classical statuary into the homes of the Victorian middle-class, otherwise unable to afford fine art. There was a period of perhaps 30 years where some astonishing work was created by Copeland amongst others, before the tat merchants moved in, produced rubbish, and tastes changed as a result. Almost an entirely British phenomenon - there were a few US producers, but they failed to achieve the refinement (or perhaps even the interest) of the British. And there was little if any interest on mainland Europe. As far as I know, virtually no-one now produces Parian ware commercially, and those that claim to do so are producing tawdry nonsense (insert well-known anonymous Irish factory here). The clay sold as Parian by the UK suppliers is, I suspect, a poor substitute for the original formulation. Not that I've tried it, but I have a suspicious mind. Pot-Clays state that theirs, for example, gains a grey cast when taken to higher temps. The Victorians knew a thing or two; shame they forgot to tell anyone.
  19. kraythe, maybe the size of the hump is what doesn't work for you. try centering a largish lump of clay and keeping the top rather wide. center just enough of that lump to make your cup and then thin the part you plan to cut to separate the piece from the base. you can ignore the part under your cup section until you want to make a second cup. eventually, you will be able to increase the size so you can make several smaller pieces from one large lump of clay. (also self-taught but with the help of many, many books and workshops and observations at galleries and open houses)
  20. Glaze issue

    congratulations, andros! so glad you have successfully completed this firing.
  21. Parian kiln firing question

    Pretty sure I fired some of that clay for a friend a few years back to cone6, don't remember any warping or sticking. Didn't look that self-glazed either.
  22. I fired my various Parian experiments as though I was doing a raw-glazing exercise, based on the fact that I didn't biscuit it first. So, I followed a slow biscuit to about 1000 deg C (bearing in mind the thickness of the pieces), and then as though a glaze firing up to maturity, with a hold of 30 minutes or so at top temp. I have to say that I never did get the exact results I was looking for! I was trying to replicate the Victorian material (e.g. see my avatar), but it proved rather elusive... I spent a long, long while ploughing through any information I could find from the original producers of Parian, all of whom seemed a bit vague and sometimes contradictory as to the exact make-up of their bodies. It was great fun, and I learned a lot, but I ended up going in a slightly different direction with my efforts at sculpture (paper-clay porcelain). It wouldn't take much to get me back to trying Parian, though! I'd be very interested to see the results of your testing the Pot-Clays offering.
  23. I have had my head in paperwork for the last week!!! I didn't even know about the articles featuring Callie and Mark!!! So glad the articles were mentioned! I just read them both. So proud to know both of you! Great work. I now know why you both have been a pottery voice in my head, down to earth and smart! Congrats! Roberta
  24. I haven't found a community that I fit in, there is a group of younger artists that set up a gallery in old town and are involved in Final Friday. I spoke to one of the members about getting involved and he basically told me I was a old woman and wouldn't fit in with the group. The potters my age are busy with their work, travel and grandchildren so I have never made a good connection there. A new multi million dollar arts center opened with week so I will probably check it out this spring and see what is happening. Denice
  25. Hi @Sputty the Parian was sold ready mixed as a casting slip from Potclays.co.uk; a link to the product is here https://www.potclays.co.uk/studio/products/5288/original-parian-semi-porcelain-casting-slip-5lt I had read about the softening, I was thinking of hitting 1200c to maybe 1215c range to be on the safe side in case it went too soft and couldn't support itself (no idea to be honest ). If it works out I might well look at Scarva and source the raw ingredients; with some help from your great Parian topic thread :-) (which I will re-read tonight) Did you have any preferred firing profiles for Parian? I was just going to use a 2 segment stoneware and tweak the upper last segment to 1215c
  26. Chicken Scratch

    The results are in. @glazenerd The first clay body mixture weighed: 25.50g before water and 25.77g after, so 1%. The second body mixture which is more porcelain than stoneware was 16.63g before(thinner tile) and 16.76g after, so less than 1% absorption. So I don't think the chicken grit, sand, and course grog had that much effect on the body porosity. I am going to put the tiles back in the water and weigh again tomorrow to see if it increases any. It makes me want to lean towards the darker tile 2 more, but I really like the more stoneware tile better. I think 1% is acceptable enough, considering who leaves their pots in water all night long fully submerged in a sealed container. lol. BlackDog, did you find any granite grit? I really can't wait to see what you do with it and that slip you formulated.
  27. Artspeak

    Neil, when I was in Art school, some guys went to the Beaux Arts Ball as a fart. rolling around on the floor wrapped up in a huge black piece of plastic and throwing out sulphur bombs. It was pretty funny. Marcia
  28. San Miguel de Allende Ceramics Workshops for 2018 offers a large number of figurative classes with well-known artists. I am the only one offering a non-figurative class on Alternative firing . San Miguel is well known as an artistic community in the mountains. My course is in Oct. 8-12. Here is the whole list https://www.sanmigueldeallendeceramicworkshops.com/2018-workshops
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