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  2. postalpotter

    Gas Kiln Continued

    Wow, why the backhanded slap old lady? What went wrong Friday to turn you into such a mean sprit? Where am I suppose to learn how to do this? Had one semester at the local community collage before the nursing program took it over. I am not here asking how to throw a mug or formulate a glaze. I have no kiln, I have made the mistake of going down this path and I will see it through. I will succeed in learning what I need to but I will have questions. If you have nothing to contribute to my better understanding of this whole ordeal then why post? I now have the correct HB's. The walls are almost completed I need to figure where to place the peep holes? I should have the frame welded by Tuesday and I hope to have the roof finished Friday. Still haven't purchased the shelves or props I have a raku kiln, built a top hat a few years ago after my first class. I like using it but without a way to bisque fire my stuff I was just not ever going to take the next step as a potter. Taking my pieces into town and waiting for space in someone else's kiln just doesn't cut it.
  3. Chilly

    No Swiping

    I helped out on the ticket line today, at a country show. I was amazed how many people used "contactless" and didn't even look at the screen to see how much I'd entered. In the UK there is a £30 per transaction limit on contactless, but even so...... Not sure how many paid by cash, there were separate lines. Last time I was on that gate was about 10 years ago and we only took cash. Then we had to check for forged notes, now I've no idea how they deal with rogues.
  4. Chilly


    I'd be honest with the students, and ask them if they want to wash the white glaze off completely, or perhaps just some of it, or just fire it anyway, Depending on how opaque the glaze is it might, or might not, cover the underglazing. Some pots may be improved, some may not, but I'd let them choose the next step.
  5. Mark C. what should I know about the use of screens? I looked at the Bailey video showing how the screens work in their mixer/pugger which is to get a better blending of the clay. Also, what is the significance of the location of the vacuum. It has to be in the later stage of the processing doesn't it?
  6. Chilly

    Rusty Kiln lid

    I used Kurust, but the rust on my kiln lid and sides was "non-existent" compared to your kiln.
  7. One thing to note is where the vacuum pump is and weather that use screens-I do not know about the baileys ? The peter pugger is at the rear of the machine for the vacuum and uses no screens. Bailey does have excellent customer service and is east coast based the peter pugger is west cost and I will say they have been helpful.
  8. Yesterday
  9. 2 for Bailey. I've got this one. Can't say enough good things about the Bailey mixer / pugger and Bailey's customer service.
  10. many years of kiln wash of the wrong kind and several years of mark's recipe tells me that the new recipe wash is excellent insurance. the old stuff kept flaking off with every firing, i have no flakes of any kind since applying the new stuff. my shelves are of various ages, some back to the 1970s that came with an old kiln given me by a retiring potter. the warped ones have a dip in the center so i fill that dip with silica sand to level it off. works fine.
  11. oldlady


    labeling bucket and lid with black sharpie pens works very well, no tape to stick to something else and pull off, crack with time or degrade. to change the color, just spray a little cheap hair spray onto the sharpie ink and wipe it off with a cotton ball. works very well. someone will recommend acetone but hair spray works better on plastic buckets, spray bottles and storage jars that are plastic.
  12. Wendy Rawlings

    Rusty Kiln lid

    Ok. So a rust converter doesn't need to be heat resistant. Hammerjte paint should be ok on top. The hole is an 'air vent' which I've always left open with a hollow bung in. I think it is important with how the heat distributes inside but I'm not massively technical in how kilns work. I also have a hole in the side which I leave open for bisque firing to allow the 'damp' out but this hole needs bunging for glazes as it changes the finished glaze appearance on nearest ceramics. Thanks for your help again.
  13. Mark C.


    As to your question the answer is no washing off the white will mess up the underneath designs you could wash it Off under a sink with brush and have students redo the under glaze after drying pots then regulate the clear or fire the white and tell them your messed up
  14. Mark C.

    Rusty Kiln lid

    Rust converter is just that a converter after it works the high heat paint is needed on the metal if all this hole is for is heat dispersal just make the tube extension as in the above post and make a smaller plug for that tube. Cement the tube into hole and rust will not fall. what do you us the hole for?
  15. Stuck on making up a 'store' title and motif. Grokking new 'bread & butter designs. Needing to make some stuff for myself alone. 

  16. Thanks MarkC! As you see from the reply above there are fans of both machines. I will have to weigh all comments I receive and eventually take my best shot. Don't think I could miss too badly with either manufacturer.
  17. Thanks oldlady! As I expected, I now have one recommendation for Bailey and one for Peter Pugger! decisions decisions!
  18. Wendy Rawlings

    Rusty Kiln lid

    Hi thanks for that. Yes I'm UK based so would need to find similar products. Does the rust converter need to withstand the high temperatures? Also if I cut away part of the metal jacket on the lid will it cause a lot of heat loss? I would probably combine this with the ceramic chimney idea as suggested as then the chemicals are moved away from the lid more. Thanks for all your ideas.
  19. ^5 clay

    ^5 clay

    Thanks LeeU very helpspful, I will try it
  20. it might be a question of location. i do not know where peter puggers are made but the bailey comes from upstate new york. i have had a bailey since they came out with the A400 de-airing model a number of years ago. it is great for my needs which are not as high as many others might be. service is excellent with a simple phone call to the tech department at bailey. i needed a new guage because mine stopped working. i had probably done something stupid and caused that to fail. as soon as i mentioned it, one was sent to me . my only concern with it was the size of the nozzle and resulting pug diameter which was smaller than the venco that i had been using. it was not a stainless model so i sold it and got the bailey. i have adjusted to the pug size and love using the machine. it mixes the hard and soft clays that i feed it and turns out a very compacted pug. it is not a mixer model but it mixes everything i toss into it. most of my work is with slabs which i use with clay cut off the boxed pugs from the supplier. the trimmings go into a bucket for pugging later, sometimes months later. i use the pugged clay for throwing. i can add wet clay, slurry or water (don't tell jim bailey!) to make the clay soft enough and thoroughly wedged for throwing with my old fingers. custom made, can't beat it! two of our members have bought the mixer model and you might solicit info from them, pugaboo and dirt roads pottery. dirt roads uses their all the time for production work. contact sharon and ask.
  21. I suggest the Peter Pugger VPM SS-20-it holds 45#s and will give you about 2/3 of this amount when full as some clay remains in chamber. This machine will maintain a high resale value and you could sell it to a better mix of users than a smaller hobby only size. The price is not that much different than the smaller sizes. The next model down is a VPM 9 that holds 25#s of clay and is just to small for anything other than hobby use. These are made with the best quality materials-if you bought a stainless model it will be easier to sell to porcelain users . I am not familiar with Bailey models-I know they are also good machines and I cave no cons. I will add that Petter Pugger only makes the mixer/pugger and they have been at it the longest.I have the VPM 30 and they do not offer it in stainless as that would be best for me. I love my machine and its taken away wedging for my compromised wrist.I feel its the best machine out there for mixing and pugging . The same thing is true with Bailey slab rollers-he makes the best as he has made them the longest-i have a Bailey electric slab roller as well.
  22. Callie Beller Diesel

    First glaze firing: wasters, kiln wash, warping?

    I think the question of wether to wash or not depends on how much you’re experimenting with your materials, and how well you know them. Kiln wash is meant to be a safeguard against small mishaps and application errors. It will not save shelves from epic runs. If you’re just worried about glaze test drips, you can reuse waster slabs that don’t get damaged. I don’t have fancy kiln shelves either, and I put a layer of the wash recipe Mark mentioned on them. They have not yet warped after a year and a half of firing to cone 7 in an electric kiln. As the kiln is in an outdoor shed, I don’t have a vent on it, so there’s no draft to pull wash loose to worry about. The warping process may take longer than that to occur, I don’t know, but so far so good.
  23. OK, I've read most of the pugmill/mixer comments on why get one (or not), what size, and uses. I am retired, am not a production potter, and could do without a pugmill/mixer (at least until my hand/arm strength begins to fade). But, at my stage in life, I enjoy using fine equipment in my hobbies and would like to get a small to medium pugmill - not necessarily the smallest size. Now - I need to decide on the manufacturer - Bailey vs Peter Pugger. I know both manufacturers make good equipment but would appreciate hearing pros and cons on these two manufacturers including features, cost, and customer service. Comments from long time owners and recent purchasers would be greatly appreciated!
  24. Callie Beller Diesel


    Also, do not be shy with the food colouring. I had to wash an entire load of work that had been glazed white when it should have been clear once because I had been feeling cheap about a lousy bottle of red food dye.
  25. Mark C.

    Rusty Kiln lid

    You will need a small grinder and cut the lid back from hole some. Either a small 4 inch grinder or a small dremel tool with cut off saw on it. If there still is rust you will then need a de-rusting liquid like ospho- after you wire brush the loose material away-you apply it and let it sit one day and it turns rust into a different form. Then use high heat paint on the new metal. This is the only repair that will give good results other than a new lid You will have to find products like this in your area of the planet as these are all in the US. I like the idea posted above as it will move the problem and keep rust from failing in. The tube should be easy to make as well.It could be glued in.MMudR was typing at the same time so I missed it.I would do this as its an easier fix.
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