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  2. I would add that flat fabric looks better than those wrinkles-change material to somethong that lays flat.
  3. Today
  4. You do not need to bisque fire it again. I've used it with mixed results. My glossy white glaze turned out rough and matte on bisque fix, but my matte grey glazed covered it perfectly. It definitely repairs cracks though!
  5. Nothing wrong with foam core risers! If you cut and construct them cleanly, they will work just fine. You want people to look at your work, and not notice the risers at all. Foam core will also be a lot lighter than wood. When you’ve been doing shows for a while, you start looking for ways to make things lighter. There will always be more than enough heavy lifting to do at shows. No matter what you choose to build your risers out of, design them so they pack flat! Since your items are small, I would suggest a booth layout that is more like a jeweler’s booth than a potter’s booth. Jewelers don’t need as much display space. They tend to put part of their display across the front of their booth, so passers-by will see the small work close up without needing to enter the booth.
  6. I think for Silica you could look at under a microscope(cheap one) and see the quartz particles relatively uniform in size to give you some confidence. Maybe even cell phone magnifier, need to try later today.
  7. Whiting has that fishy sea smell to me. Guess that's because it's made from sea shells. Dolomite and talc look similar to me. Silica, not sure, firing a sample of each will give some good data to guess from. Maybe do a sample by itself and a 50/50 mix with silica.
  8. So talc - feel, look and magnesium reagent only, dolomite - strong calcium and strong magnesium reagent (both react), whiting only calcium reagent, Bone ash - likely calcium reagent and volume mass. Sounds like you have it mostly figured.
  9. Last add: Cone ten is a thing because the earth melts at cone ten. Cone six is a thing because ...... nobody seems to know exactly, maybe one of the wars or energy but to get cone ten stuff to melt at cone six, boron is an easy to use glass former that helps everything melt. Under UMF (unity molecular formula, circa 1910) 0.15 Boron gets you cone six, 0.42 Boron gets you cone 04. Cone 04, no idea why that is a thing either! Many cone 6 and 04 glazes are simply cone ten with the proper amount of Boron added. Gerstley is mined, gillespie is produced. Many newer glaze recipes use Boron frit instead. Frits are manufactured materials, not directly mined and generally produce very consistent results but often less variegation than gerstley.
  10. Only in that we understand them better, and are more focused than before on making glazes that are durable and safe, rather than glazes that just look good and are easy to make.
  11. No, we just understand more about the chemistry involved now. The minerals were just as fussy back then. A good example is your Kingman feldspar. It is no longer available and people have had to come up with a substitute or change their glaze chemistry. We just know now what changes to make now without guessing too much. Back in the past you'd probably just drop any glazes using Kingsman and call it a day. The situation with gerstley and gillepsie is the same. They stopped mining gerstley, but now instead of dropping the glazes that use it, people have an analysis of it's make-up and can recreate something quite similar. PROGRESS! But yes, cone 10 glazes are still quite simple, we just know the science and durability better and can be more picky about what we create.
  12. I am really starting to get the impression that these "modern" glazes are far more fussy than the one we used in the past.
  13. If I'm understanding the direction of the hole, it won't show when the bricks are used for a kiln wall, correct? I wouldn't even worry about the hole. At 5/8" it's likely not going to affect the insulating properties of the bricks enough to matter. If the hole will show and allow heat to escape, then fiber is probably the best way to go. Wear a respirator when using the fiber.
  14. It is virtually identical to Gerstley of a specific year. It was different every few years as they moved through the deposit. Which year they chose to use as their baseline I do not know. I've been using Gillespie for about 15 years, and it's always been stronger than Gerstley during that period, and I've had several customers says the same thing. Typically you'll need 3-4% less Gillespie than Gerstley.
  15. I had not thought to do that. Guess I was thinking that something "sticky" would help stabilize any weakness caused by the hole being there. Maybe the simple solution is the best? Thanks for responding!
  16. My basics list is the same as everyone else's basics list, pretty much. In addition, my essentials include a variety of wood sticks (chopsticks, skewers, round/square/triangular rods, pieces of thin decorative molding etc.); also scalpels, dental tools, and, mostly, my fingers.
  17. Hi Delwyn and welcome to the forum. Could you post a picture of the cracks? It would help narrow down the cause.
  18. One of my favourite glazing tools are staple removers, they just leave 2 tiny snakebite marks on the surface. I would use one staple remover to hold the pot nearly vertical over a catch basin then with your other hand pour the glaze over the pot. I would do each side right after the other to minimize glaze overlaps showing. If you have someone to help it would help if they held the pot while you poured. (and practice with a tray or something to get the rhythm right before doing the pots) Where the glaze goes around the staple remover I just rub the snakebite marks over when the glaze is dry. If you do decide to make the dipping glaze up as a brushing glaze then I would just add the CMC (or brushing medium or Magma) to the small amount of glaze needed to glaze these pots and save the rest to use for a dipping glaze. Would save making up 5lbs of brushing glaze when you don't need that much.
  19. Yesterday
  20. There are a lot of reasons that may not seem logical, some described in previous posts. One of the most common reasons, at least for me, is cooling the kiln too fast. This usually from opening too soon, or from a kiln that cools quickly because of the kiln itself or the fact that it is not a full load. At any rate, fast cooling causes either cooling dunts or crazing, and sometimes both! best, Pres
  21. Newbie here! I'm struggling with setting up my first booth! Ugh! I make small sculptures that look best if seen at or about eye level. Folks have suggested pedestals or risers on tables. I've created some rough ones from foam core, but need to make sturdier ones from wood. Because my 'guys' are small I need some ideas to make them pop. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. I would like my booth to look more like a gallery than a craft booth and I'm starting out with black fabric covered metal panels (better design for framed artwork). These are not sturdy enough for me to hang shelves from without worrying about things being knocked off. Any and all suggestions and recommendations!
  22. If the glaze in question doesn’t show drips on application, Liam’s suggestion of just touching up the marks with a fingertip or a brush is your best bet.
  23. Hello, We have had some ceramics form cracks after we have applied the glaze. The works were fine after the bisque firing, but after the glazing, formed cracks, not crazing. Does anyone know why this might be happening?
  24. Hi, I just bought a used SNO Industries Model P11. The interior is 11 x 11". It didn't come with a manual, did yours come with it or did you find it online? I am totally new to firing by myself and would love some tips for getting started. Thanks!
  25. Well, I stuffed the extra holes in my kiln brick with ceramic fiber, seems to work well
  26. I have 150 K26 soft bricks that have been drilled through with about a 5/8-inch hole on the broad side of the brick. I want to fill the holes and then reuse these bricks. Does anyone have a recommendation on what type of material/product to use? I have looked online and see that there are fillers intended for repairing small kilns, but these products are packaged in small amounts - too small - and by the time I'd buy it I'd have spent more than I'd be saving by salvaging the bricks I have. The bricks are to be used for a lid for a wood fire train kiln. The first design is failing and has to be rebuilt.
  27. Thanks for the info....I suspected as much
  28. Gillespe is not. Similar but if they told you virtually the same that is false.
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