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  2. killacarly

    advice/tips on my new kiln :)

    The blank ring does not have elements in it. However, I have taken it out.
  3. neilestrick

    advice/tips on my new kiln :)

    So does the small ring have elements in it? If so, you'll need a 40 amp breaker. If not, you'll need a 40 amp breaker.
  4. I did it, just asks about what tableware you use. Not sure why it's posted here, doesn't seem to have anything to do with ceramics
  5. I have finally decided to set up my own personal studio and recently bought a used kiln in great condition per my professor's advice. I am used to using my professor's gas kiln at my university, so I'm not very knowledgeable on electric kilns. I know it'll be a lot of trial and error, but I was wondering if anyone has any tips or advice for getting started. Thank you:)
  6. High Bridge Pottery

    University Assignment Survey

    It is just a google survey, no virus.
  7. Today
  8. neilestrick

    Crawling matte glaze. Any hope of saving these?

    Considering that every kiln cools at a different rate, how can you define a glaze as a 'true matte' regardless of cooling rates? I've seen glazes that are glossy in my 4 cubic foot kiln but matte in my 21 cubic foot kiln. Which is correct? If I only had my large kiln you would say it's a true matte because I didn't add a cooling cycle. In my small kiln you'd say it wasn't. As with most things in ceramics, you can't define it that precisely. You can also alter the degree of matteness with the cooling rate. I've also got glazes that are glossier with a slow cooling. The main point here is that you achieve matteness with a glaze that is properly melted, not by under-firing a glossy glaze.
  9. Well that's not really appropriation, that's just forgery.
  10. Its best for most glaze to fire slow at the end during the melt process-fast going up is fine slow at the end.
  11. Bill Kielb

    Crawling matte glaze. Any hope of saving these?

    Yes controlled cooling will provide more time for growth, but glazes that are true matte are matte regardless so nothing special about cooling usually for a true matte. Interestingly enough, fast cooling can freeze glossy surfaces but are rarely discussed. I know folks who intentionally gas fire for high gloss and take their time closing their kiln down just to promote the highest gloss they can get.
  12. neilestrick

    University Assignment Survey

    I agree! @Wiktoria can you tell us something about yourself and the purpose of your survey?
  13. Bill Kielb

    Cone 10 and 11 melting at the same time

    Yes, Same on the new Genesis which offers a medium speed as well. 120 on slow and medium and they stuck with the 200 on fast
  14. neilestrick

    Crawling matte glaze. Any hope of saving these?

    Don't forget about cooling rates. Many matte glazes will only achieve their matteness if the cooling is slow enough. I've seen many a matte that is glossy without a controlled cooling. There has to be time for the crystals to grow. Steven Hill has some great examples of this on his Instagram account. It doesn't necessarily have to be a really slow cycle, but slower than the natural cooling rate.
  15. neilestrick

    Cone 10 and 11 melting at the same time

    Unless you're firing fast. On the Dynatrol/V6-CF, they use 200 per hour for the final segment.
  16. Switches are easy to replace. There's generally just a nut that threads over the knob stem. Getting to everything may be a pain, but the actual changing won't be difficult. Before you go changing them, though, you should figure out exactly where the problem is. Using a multi-meter, track the power from the power cord to the elements and find where it's actually dead. There are a lot of possible dead points in there. If only the bottom elements are coming on, then (according to this wiring diagram) the problem probably isn't either of those timer switches because those switches feed to both the bottom and top sections. You'll need to get in there and see if you have power coming out of those switches, then follow the power and see if it's coming out of each relay or switch on down the line until you find the spot it's dead. That said, this wiring diagram seems really odd to me. For starters, I've never seen a kiln with elements ohms graded like that. Second, if I'm reading it correctly (and it is difficult to read), the middle elements are going straight to the sitter, with no switches or anything. That means the middle section would be on full blast as soon as you push push the power button on the sitter. In that case, you would only have the middle section dead if there was a broken element. Just check for continuity between the top and bottom element of each section to see if there's break. Have you confirmed that the kiln actually matches the diagram?
  17. Bill Kielb

    Glaze Cracking around Handles when Drying

    The Plus six recipe: (By hand) Neph SY - 40 % Gerstley - 20% EPK - 42.5% Talc - 18.5 Wollastonite - 11 Flint - 11.57 The recipe attached has slightly more silica and Gerstley than the base on Glazy. The reason for the addition: More Silica = less matte (More satin), more Gerstley = slightly earlier melt to protect against studio under fire. This glaze has been progression tested from + 2 to + 20 Silica. At about Plus 10 - 20 it appears as a very glossy clear The base Glaze appears on Glazy at https://glazy.org/recipes/19734 I have a full progression with pictures in a June newsletter, it is just too big to place here so if we figure a decent way for you to receive it I will forward at your request. Enjoy! Oops, almost forgot To answer your question about the 3249, that was the analysis of the OVMI glaze
  18. I think it will be hard for you to get people to click on a link a stranger asks them to click on, particularly when you provide no background as to who you are, what you are doing, and what the survey is about. No one wants to risk introducing a virus to his or her computer.
  19. Hello! I would like to invite you to fill out a short survey, which I will use for my final year report. It will take no longer than 5 mins and will help me a lot. Here is a link: https://goo.gl/forms/Tg0Gti0czmKTQZhK2 Thank you!
  20. JohnnyK

    steel nail in stoneware?

    Only if it's dipped in holy water and used to hang garlic
  21. oldlady

    Glaze Cracking around Handles when Drying

    bill, i have enlarged the post you submitted but still cannot read all of the info. my eyes are very good but my brain is not as fully saturated with chemistry as yours. everything under the title Marcia's silky clear true matte is invisible no matter how much i enlarge it. could you please list the ingredients in normal type and explain that first one, i read frit 3249. can find no reference to this number. did i read it wrong or is it some unusual product that is only available in some other place? and Amtalc is also a puzzle. i assume calcined kaolin would be EPK calcined but assumptions are unsafe as we all know. i have been looking for a zinc free translucent matte glaze for years so i can use green slip under it without the final color being grey. this might be it if i can clear up the ingredient list. thank you
  22. oldlady

    Favourite craft show tools and tricks

    damp soapy rags and dry towels. that last show was messy with rain and mud and i know some of it will show up on my white shelves. carrying a damp soapy rag in a plastic zip bag makes all the difference. and dry towels are packed between pots in some of the boxes. a huge bath towel on top of the big basket of small things keeps the drive quiet. the soft weight doesn't allow movement among the little pots so i can put heavier things on top without breaking the little ones. rubber bungee cords to hold the pvc pipe/concrete tent weights firmly against the legs so they do not get in the way.
  23. Alex Hell

    Us To Uk Frit Substitution Chart?

    Hello Fredrin, did you gave it a try? Do the substitutions work for 3134 and 3195? Best, Alex
  24. oldlady

    Giffin grip

    today i found an additional benefit from my giffin grip. i made some bowls that i wanted to put blue slip on so i could carve patterns in them. i always use the low sliders in my grip but trying to cut close to the rim while the pot is being held by those low sliders is impossible. so, i used the wide sliders that have the rubber padding on the opposite side. i ran them all the way into the center and put my bowls over them. then slid the padded side outward gently to hold the bowls in place while i carved right down to the rim. no problems at all.
  25. Hi! I am new to the community, but so thankful for this amazing resource! I have a Duncan 1029N. It’s an over engineered manual kiln with a kiln sitter for anyone who’s not familiar. This kiln has three zones, four elements each. Only my bottom four elements are turning on during firing. If interested, I’ve attac the wiring diagram. Has anyone here replaced the 4300 fixed interval switch and 4600 repeat timer switch themselves? I have a tech I can call out to do it, but I’m wondering if it’s something I can do myself. I found the directions online (specific to Duncan) for how to do it. But when I talked to the tech about it, he definitely heavy sighed. Is it just a big pain because they’re at the bottom of the control panel? Will I need special tools? Thank you for any feedback you can offer!
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