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  2. yappystudent

    Glazing/Underglazing textured pieces - help!

    Typically the traditional method is exactly what you described as #2, except most folks would put a clear glaze over a colored matte underglaze. Layering another colored underglaze with a glossy finish works too. You'll get brighter colors that way, like 'glazing' with watercolors. Just be really careful not to disturb the dry first layer when putting down the second layer, so use a soft sumi ink brush or something similar to apply your top glaze. For thinning just use water, although this may thin the color you can apply more layers to build it back up. If the finished glaze pits you've usually used to much. At low-fire temps underglazes are usually pretty well-behaved, it depends on what look you're going for. Like Gabby said, Amaco velvets are very nice underglazes and their colors are reliably vivid. For me they have been really foolproof over greenware. Most of my underglazes are the Duncan you described. Their main advantage is you don't have to necessarily use a clear glaze over them, eliminating the need for a second firing if they turn out well, however their gloss varies slightly from color to color in my experience, temperature, whether you're firing greenware or bisque, etc, testing is *groan* the only sure way to figure out each and every color you buy. If you want a lot of different colors try mixing colors in the bottle like tempera paints -but I'd try to stay within a brand type to pre-mix colors. BTW not being confident about end results is a way of life for potters. Be brave and welcome to the club.
  3. Lee U recently stated: sparked by my intention to make a clay toy for an event, how about a question about making clay toys? And for those who have made them, pics please and some comments about their construction. I don't know as I have ever made anything that would be considered to be a clay toy, but then I have to think about it a bit, because I actually have made a few things that would be considered toys while I was teaching. The first of these was small musical instruments, whistles, ocarinas and flutes. I started doing the whistles for my Ceramics classes as a smaller pinch pot project. I used a paper back book that described the process, and taught myself until I was able to not fail. I made 20 sets of tools to make them from chop sticks(first time I had used them for pottery tools), and started it as a project with my Ceramics 1's. Then I showed them to a Music teacher that taught Theory and Harmony(very tough music writing course). She thought her students would enjoy it at the end of the year, and there after every year we made them, experimenting over the years with decorated whistles, ocarinas and flutes. Had fun. Earlier, than this though, I had a student that brought in an old antique top point. The top had been made of ceramic, and had a metal point. Over the years the top had worn and cracked. The student wondered if we could make one to replace it. I cheated, as we used the wheel like lathe with the clay forming the outside, then digging out the inside when leather hard with the top held in a rubber sleeve on the GG. Fired, glazed, glaze fired, and then epoxy puttied the metal point into the top. Kid through it on the composite floor in the hallway, after wrapping the string. Did fine. I saw him 10 years later, and he said his grandpa could still use it, and they would throw it at times when they got together. The kid was a Lt in the army at the time. best, Pres
  4. Mark C.

    Creative Industries Pottery Wheels

    I would think twice on zero support on old wheel. I have one of their wheels that is only the table-it has no parts on it only a rectangle table.Sits next tom my Brent and holds my bats and clay when throwing. Solid table.
  5. Sad to hear that, they were good wheels.
  6. S. Dean

    Creative Industries Pottery Wheels

    Speedball bought the Clay Boss line but not the HP, MP and Jr wheels that proceeded them. There is no vender support for the HP, MP, Jr.
  7. Opps--thanks Neil-I need to be more careful with terminology---luster-like , crystalline-like, shino-like etc. are not the same as the correctly formulated products or processes. Great example as to why I rarely offer technical info LOL.
  8. Thank you, Neilestrick! Your post has been very helpful!
  9. MaggieT

    Fast Firing

    Thanks Mark i had it all wrong, I thought that the last fast firing had fired out the oxides, that's why there was no colour. Thanks for the explanation. Maggie
  10. Yesterday
  11. Mark C.

    Fast Firing

    Glazes respond to time and temperature .Not just a set point like cone 6 end point That said a cone 6 at 5 hours will look a lot different than a cone 6 at 9 hours. The glaze has no maturing time in a fast fire. You just found the out with your fast fire.
  12. MaggieT

    Fast Firing

    Thanks Neil, That makes sense. I will go back to the slow glaze! Thanks, Maggie
  13. Mark C.

    Old Alpine Conversion

    Instead of wrapping I favor the sheet metal shield. The pipe will not corrode that way and its all out in the open for inspection. The other suggestion is painting the pipes with high heat silver paint-comes in a spray can is aluminum colored and really reflects heat well. It holds up super well to high heat situtaions.I spray all my gas lines close to kilns with it. Hensells hardware sells it in paint Dept. I also spray all my kiln metal work with it before the rust sets in.It protects for decades.
  14. Magnolia Mud Research

    Old Alpine Conversion

    three comments: 1. The updraft gas kilns at the local college have similar burner and piping arrangements as being used here and have shown no evidence of being overheated in the 12+ years I have observed them. The piping has only the galvanized and paint coatings from the manufacturer. The kilns are fired 1 to 2 times per week during the three semesters each year. 2. If you wrap the piping, be sure you thoroughly inspect the piping and structural members for corrosion prior to each firing. Piping in an environment with high humidity and an insulating covering will be subject to hidden pitting corrosion underneath the insulating material; the risk is especially increased when the piping is only heated periodically. 3. Consider the effects of wind blowing across the kiln area floor and interfering with the burners and pilots. You might need to add some portable windbreakers. Even though the college kilns are in a large shed with half walls on three sides (full wall on one), high wind conditions have shut down the kilns by blowing out the burners/pilots. Portable wind breaks are used to mitigate the winds. LT
  15. Thank you! I think this is more what I was looking for, although oil spot glazes are amazing, I'm not quite on that level yet.
  16. Fred Sweet

    Old Alpine Conversion

    bw- You might also consider mounting a poece of metal flashing about an inch + from the gas line. You could put a bend in it so that it shields the gas line from both the burner and the kiln floor. Regards, Fred
  17. I believe you may find as Neil says that many of the parts are standard. If I remember correctly, the HP and MP wheel that I had at the HS used auto V belts. The HP wheel was built quite well, as was the MP even if under powered for me. Not much should wear out on them. best, Pres
  18. neilestrick

    Fast Firing

    Lots of glazes don't respond well to fast firings. It's not only that they're not spending as long in the kiln, but also that the kiln is going to cool a little fast since the bricks haven't had as long to absorb heat. I would go back to a slower firing. If the cone offset is correct, it should be correct at either speed.
  19. neilestrick

    Creative Industries Pottery Wheels

    Yep, talk to speedball. However, the thing with wheels is that the parts that would need to be replaced- electronics, belts, motors, most bearings, etc., are not specific to wheels. They are standard parts that can be found elsewhere.
  20. neilestrick

    Old Alpine Conversion

    Wrap it well!
  21. MaggieT

    Fast Firing

    Thanks Johnny, I was hoping to hear that. I love this glaze and hate to lose it! Maggie
  22. JohnnyK

    Fast Firing

    Hi Maggie, welcome to the Forums...The fast firing could be the problem...not enough heatwork time to let the glazes to develop properly. You might try again, refiring the pieces with a 20 minute hold at the end, or go back to your original firing schedule with the 35 degree offset and see what happens. JohnnyK
  23. MaggieT

    Fast Firing

    Yes, I had cones in - I have attached the files.... perfect 6. Glaze didn't run more than usual (actually, it was a great firing except for the fact that the colour was burned out). No pinholes, blisters etc. The glaze is the same one that I always use - no change in the application.
  24. Min

    Fast Firing

    Did you have cones in to verify it reached cone 6 and didn’t fire hotter? Did your glazes run more than usual? Pinholes, blisters? Change in glaze application? If you would post a picture of your pots that might help too. Welcome to the forum!
  25. Mark C.

    Creative Industries Pottery Wheels

    Speedball bought them out and parts for the older models will be hard to find-you can call them and ask about this. They make the newer clay boss models now.
  26. Do I understand correctly that all creative industries wheels are no longer supported at all--meaning that parts (belts etc. ) for them cannot be found? Would this mean you would have a wheel you could no longer repair or make work at optimal speeds?
  27. bwsaunders

    Old Alpine Conversion

    Neil- that was a concern for us as well, but there is actually about inches between them. We're going to wrap about 18" of it with kaowool just in case.
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